September 16th 2011
SBO’s, or Soil-Based Organisms, offer a huge range of microorganisms to replace missing gut bacteria. Also, these organisms are naturally present in freshly drawn well or spring water that is not chlorinated or otherwise sterilized, and they will massively boost your resistance to cancer and pathogenic diseases.
Raw milk contains colostrum, which is a natural immune booster that has been employed in India for the treatment of leukaemia, though colostrum is destroyed by pasteurization or any other heating. In desert campaigns in the second world war, many thousands of German soldiers were lost due to dysentery, when keen observers noticed the native inhabitants did not suffer a similar fate. This they achieved by swallowing a small portion of fresh camel droppings, rich with natural gut bacteria (80% of our immune system is based on the microflora in our gut). The organisms responsible for this beneficial effect were then isolated and then administered to the German troops and there were no further fatalities from dysentery. Phage medicine is used in Russia too, where they have discovered that a germ exists in nature to kill any other germ, so hospital waste from patients is analysed and all microorganisms isolated are then cultured and then tested for their ability to overcome pathogenic organisms. So, in Russia, patients are consulted on whether or not they want vaccines and antibiotics, or whether they would instead prefer nature’s own predators to take care of the problem. Natural organisms exist to overcome virtually every known disease, for instance, poliomyelitis, diphtheria etc.
The best way to avoid pathogenic disease is to understand the essential pleomorphic nature of all microorganisms. Each virus can change into a germ, then a fungus, or mould, then a cancer; this being verifiable using live blood specimens under a dark field microscope. These organisms are not bad in themselves, so the concept of the necessity of a ‘clean’ bodily system is erroneous; all organisms start off the same way as beneficial to the system, but when an acidic and oxygen and mineral deficient bodily environment starts to predominate, then ‘friendly’ bacteria mutate into ‘hostile’ ones, to begin the process of breaking down the bodily tissues back into the soil to be recycled and taken on by other souls as their external bodies. This is not a hostile process at all in fact; as the signal is being given by lack of maintenance of bodily health by the individual that the body is dying and no longer required, and simply needs to be broken down to be used by someone else.
Several years ago I was requested to design a method of producing silver sol, with equipment that would be easy to use, compact, and be suitable to use in hospitals to produce fresh silver sol for use in every hospital ward that it might be needed on. With the increasing emergence of diseases that are multiple antibiotic resistant, silver sol should again become prominent in the field of disease prevention and cure as it once was before the advent of antibiotics. The idea was to provide equipment that would bypass the need for purchasing silver sol at exorbitant prices from pharmaceutical companies, using a totally repeatable method to ensure reasonable constancy of particle size and ppm values, at a cost so cheap that it would make a vast difference, particularly in third world countries where per capita incomes are extremely low, often less than 1% of our own.
I will introduce you to the equipment I used to do this, and also to the very simple variation on this method, which is the final design that I propose would be suitable to be used for this purpose, as well as for domestic users who would like to construct their own. In absolute emergencies of course, particularly in poorer foreign countries where no equipment of even the simplest type is available, the simple expedient of a very basic set up using 3 x 9 volt batteries (providing 27 volts) connected to even 99.9% silver electrodes in a glass of warm distilled or even reverse osmosis filtered water will still produce a somewhat effective sol, albeit of very varying quality, sufficient perhaps even for full resolution of some conditions, including some systemic conditions, at the very least certainly giving excellent resolution of superficial skin conditions and infected wounds and so on. To enter inside cells within the body, to address internal conditions of pathogenic origin, a significant proportion of clusters of silver ions must be of a very limited size range, hence my recommendation for more accurate equipment for manufacturing silver sol. For regular treatments, constancy of quality would become of paramount importance, particularly in such applications as intravenous usage to treat blood leukaemia. One excellent research company, Natural-Immunogenics, has claimed a 98% removal of leukaemia cells in vivo using silver sol, in 24 hours (possibly either by reversal of those cells to normal cells, or by their destruction).
I have manufactured ‘colloidal’ (more properly termed ionic or even sol) silver using 99.999% pure silver in single-distilled water using 27 volts DC with an AC/DC converter for constant voltage to obtain reproducible quality, at a constant temperature using 2 litres of water in a non-reactive borosilicate glass ‘low form’ 2000 ml Schott Duran beaker in an external water bath at a constant temperature of 32 degrees C using a Techne laboratory temperature controller, in complete darkness, for 70 minutes with an array of 12 electrodes cut from two metres of 2mm silver wire, set in a varnished piece of wood, and then submitting various 20 CC (cubic centimetre) samples to a university lab to ascertain the exact ppm quantity of silver in the water to properly calibrate the equipment for constant ppm value in the future. Using 28 degrees temperature and 27 volts DC for 70 minutes will give you a sol of 5 ppm or so.
I supplied these samples for testing after first settling on a suitable temperature that I could easily maintain throughout the year, considering that summer temperatures might exceed a lower limit set during the summer months, so I decided on 32 degrees C, a temperature I could easily stick to even in hotter weather just by making silver sol at night when it is cooler. I selected the electrode array to have the electrodes as far apart as possible in two parallel lines so as to make the process as slow as possible to ensure the finest particle size, with the same size particles coming from all electrodes (hence not having electrodes in two half-moon arrays on opposite sides of the beaker). Then I ran a batch of tests using the equipment at 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 and 80 minutes, (tests are cheaper in batches, as setting the argon plasma equipment up is the most time-consuming thing, even if the test is just of one sample, so get a good few done, and draw a curved line through all the results on graph paper to select what you are aiming for, 8 ppm, 10 ppm or whatever. Just do three tests if this works out cheaper, say at 50, 65 and 80 minutes, or at 50, 70 and 90 minutes, it should cost around £100 for 3 tests.
An alternative method of manufacture is to place the beaker within a lab oven with 1 hole (or 2 holes if you prefer) drilled in it through the back of the oven (the laboratory oven manufacturer will be happy to put these in for you to allow the wires to be placed through from the electrodes to the power source. Two copper wires in plastic cable sufficiently thick to transmit 27 volts can be connected to 12 wires, (6 to either side of the block of wood through which the electrodes are placed, through 2mm holes, with each electrode connected to the wires through 12 small metal conductive clamps. The wire used can all be of the same thickness. Additionally, as an alternative method of connecting the electrodes to their power source, you can solder a copper wire over the tops of each of the two strips of electrodes, so you just have one clip to attach to each side of the block of electrodes, though make sure that equal current still reaches all the electrodes if you do this method.
When you receive your 2 metres of silver 2mm thick wire, it will be in a coil, so you will need to straighten it all out. You will notice that there are usually one or two centimetres extra, so measure the full length and divide that with a pair of pliers into 12 equal lengths. Then, using some small pliers bend 8-9 millimetres over at the end in an approximate right angle (it is best if this is not flat, but sticks up a bit to present a better connection for the electric clamps that relay to the DC unit – be very careful to get this right first time, as attempting to bend it again might stress the metal too much and possibly even snap it). Varnish the wooden block that you will use to hold the electrodes before you insert the silver electrode wires into into it, to prevent the possibility of any moisture from the process getting into the wood and warping the block or causing a short (when cleaning the electrode block I sometimes rinse it, but water vapour may eventually warp the wood unless you seal it with polyurethane varnish. When the varnish is completely dry, push the wire through the 2mm holes for the electric clamps to attach to. 2mm holes are perfect; the wire will go through perfectly with a very tight fit and be difficult to move, which is good. You can put a small notch in the upper ends of 6 of the electrodes that you have bent over, so you can note which set you used for cathodes each time and change the polarity over after each run to ensure equal wearing away of the electrodes (remembering to keep a small notebook for this purpose, noting also the time length, temperature and voltage used also, in case you don’t use the equipment for a long time and forget your original settings).
The piece of wood for the electrodes can be 20 centimetres long, by 6.5 centimetres wide, by 8mm thick, though you can use wood maybe very slightly thinner if you like, but I found 8mm to be sturdy, not allowing any loosening of the electrodes, thus keeping the electrodes firmly set at equal distance from each other, for constancy of the process.
First centre the wood, from each end, putting a line though the centre, then mark out 6 parallel lines, 3 out from each side of the centre line, making the first 2 lines each 1 centimetre out from the central line, then making 2 further lines each 2 cm out from the previous lines on each side of the central line.
Then centre the wood from each side, and draw 2 straight lines 5.6 centimetres apart, to ensure that the electrodes are as far apart as possible when they hang down into the beaker, and also to ensure that the array will stabilize the block of electrodes on the top of the beaker. You should have 2 parallel lines 10 centimetres long, 5.6 centimetres apart, in the centre of your block of wood; this will leave about 5 mm margin at each side of the wood block, with 5 centimetres left empty at the end of each side of the block. Another little tip, is to glue a couple of wooden struts across the back of the wooden block in which the electrodes are set, at both ends, that is a 6.5 centimetres by 3 cm by approximately 1 centimetre thick piece of wood glued on top of the block at each end, and a central block of wood 3 centimetres wide by 13.5 centimetres long by approximately 1 centimetre deep to prevent the possibility of the block warping and putting the electrodes getting closer or further apart, which would also alter conductivity and thus the time required to obtain the ppm you want. The Techne (or whatever other laboratory company’s temperature regulator you may use) temperature regulator pumps water around the external bath, causing vibration to the whole apparatus, so you need a good margin of wood for stability on top of the glass beaker and to allow you sufficient area to grab the electrode block with your hand to lift it out easily at the end of each run. Also bear in mind that when the water is pumped around the external water bath, it will be pushed up higher in some places against the sides of the tank, so you need to calculate sufficient height for the tank walls to prevent water spilling over.
Drill 12 holes where the lines intersect. You will have 2mm wide holes drilled through the wood every 2 centimetres, the first at the beginning of each 10 cm line, then each of the rest of the 6 holes every 2 cm with the last of the 6 holes at the end of the 10cm line, on each side of the wood in 2 straight parallel lines (12 holes in all), 5.6 centimeters apart.
After drinking large quantities of the left overs from all the tests I was doing, 2 litre beakerfulls at a time, only 20ml of each of which was required to be submitted for laboratory analysis, I did get a sterile gut, so colloidal silver sols should be used with extreme caution. They are great for treating wounds and burns, and leukaemia blood cancer cells have been 98% eradicated in 24 hours using intravenous sol silver in validated medical tests, so it does have a lot of promise, but not for gut flora though. Use SBO’s from some manufacturer or get them naturally from freshly drawn spring or well water. 99.999% pure silver wire can be obtained from Alfa Aesar, a division of Matthey Johnson in Germany.
Silver sol must always be stored in complete darkness, use not only dark glass but a cupboard or a cardboard cylinder in addition, or the silver ions will accept additional electrons from the light, even through dark glass, and bottom out, becoming much less effective; remember, if you can see through the glass, electrons of light can pass through the glass also and damage the sol. Different pathogenic organisms and the organs in which they are situated may each respond to slightly differing ionic cluster sizes. Some researchers gain good therapeutic results from ionic clusters generated in sols of as little as 2-3ppm. The information for equipment settings that I provide here at 32 degrees should produce a sol of around 8ppm, and 28 degrees should produce a sol of around 5 ppm with the same time and voltage of 27 volts, though the individual water distiller that you use will make distilled water of a different conductivity to mine, to produce a slight variation on this figure. 14ppm is the boundary at which the clusters of ions reach such a size that they can no longer pass through a tissue cell wall, so for applications requiring ionic cluster sizes able to enter any cell, go for less than 14ppm.
A study in the Czech Republic emphasised the effectiveness of silver ions in destroying MRSA, including strains that were multiple drug resistant, as well as the great importance of ensuring small sizes of clusters of ions, sufficiently small enough to penetrate cell walls and the pathogens inside. The study was conducted by the Department of Physical Chemistry at Palacky University, and was later republished in the Journal of Physical Chemistry in August 2006, titled “Silver colloidal nanoparticles: synthesis, characterization, and their antibacterial activity”. This life-saving quality of small particle sizes of silver ion clusters emphasises the importance of ensuring the production of them, rather than just an imprecise mixture of sizes. To make double sure of effectiveness, freshly manufactured sols would be of the greatest benefit, to ensure that clusters of ions have not been gradually bonding together and thus becoming less effective, hence the idea of freshly made sols becoming available in hospitals around the world; such attention to ion cluster size and freshness can mean the difference between life and death in cases where a potentially fatal pathogenic organism is to be eradicated. http://www.colloidalsilvercuresmrsa.com/mrsa_cure.htm
“…silver particles with a narrow size distribution with an average size of 25 nm, which showed high antimicrobial and bactericidal activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, including highly multi-resistant strains such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA).” The study further demonstrated that very low concentrations of silver could be utilized to destroy MRSA, as long as the silver particles were very small, averaging 25 nm.
Also be aware that ppm means nothing when a sol is made too fast, the slower the better, as long as the process is not so slow that the water is exposed to oxygen for too long, as this too will also cause the sol to turn yellow brown and the oxidised particles to bottom out. 70 minutes is safe, and sufficiently brief a period to minimize the mixing of additional oxygen into the sol, so avoiding formation of silver oxide, whilst being a sufficiently long enough period with such a large number of electrodes to produce a very fine particle size. There should be no oxides coming off the electrodes during the process, though when lifting the electrodes from the water, a very small number of tiny flakes of oxide will often get disturbed and get washed off in to the sol, usually just 2 or 3 in my experience. Because they initially float on the surface, unless further disturbed, you can easily fish any little floating flakes from the surface of the sol that drop from the electrodes before bottling and do not refrigerate it; the continuous excitation of Brownian motion is favoured in fact by being kept in a warm place, not a cold one. A further note; when changing the temperature of your water before manufacturing the sol, remember that the rate at which silver ions will leave the silver rods (on one side) will double approximately with every 10 degrees Fahrenheit increase in temperature. If you wish, should the minor dislodging of oxides from the electrodes be a problem for you, add a further metre of silver wire, having 9 electrodes on each side of the block instead of 6 electrodes, and the overall deposition of oxides will be distributed further and thus be more stable on the electrodes when lifting the electrodes out; 2mm silver wire is sold by Alfa Aesar by the metre. Adding more than 9 electrodes each side would make the process of cleaning them properly too difficult, as your fingers need to get between them. Exposure to air will be minimized in the relatively sealed environment of an oven, so you could also try lower voltages to make the process a little more gradual to reduce the deposits on the electrodes, but I am highly doubtful that the end result will be any less oxide. A further alternative is to stop the procedure during the process, take the electrodes out, polish them and put them back in the beaker before resuming the process.
Another tip to prevent excessive wearing of one set of your rods is to rotate them every time you manufacture, so that the anode electrodes are used as the cathode electrodes the next time around, to give even wearage.
Only clean oxides off the electrodes just before each manufacturing run; use a very soft scrubber (a very old one is good for this) to clean off the toughest oxides, then use an old handkerchief to remove the remainder, pressing hard, and you will get loads more oxide and loose silver disturbed by the scrubbing cloth coming off, even though you thought you had cleaned them properly before, leaving a blackish deposit on the handkerchief. If you clean the oxides off the electrodes and then leave them for a few days before you use them again, your cleaning them will have served little purpose, as the silver electrodes will quickly tarnish again in the air, and you will have to polish them again, wasting more silver. Doing this ensures that no big chunks of silver and oxide will come off the electrodes disturbing the process and throwing your intended results right out, as any remaining particles coming off the electrodes will considerably alter the rate of electrolysis and cause your sol to have much larger ion cluster size and to bottom out much faster. If you make it right it will maintain Brownian motion and its therapeutic quality for much longer.
ppm can mean nothing at all, as in a lab, a silver sol containing clusters of ions is dissolved into single ions by adding nitric acid, and the solution then aspirated as a fine vapour under pressure into an argon plasma flame at very high temperature, analyzing the spectrum of colour, to measure the total quantity of silver in the fluid, whether it was 10 ppm contained in a few million groups of ions by making your sol in 2 minutes, or whether it contained 10 ppm contained in many billions of smaller groups of ions obtained by a manufacturing time of 70 minutes or so will produce exactly the same colour flame.
In relation to finding ppm value of your sol, bear in mind that a cluster of 10,000 ions will have exactly the same outer charge as a cluster of 10 ions, so the conductivity of the water as affected by these equal charges on these varying sized clusters which a TDS meter will measure cannot really give any genuine approximation as to the amount of silver present, and that is from a conversation I had with the university professor who did my original calibration tests for me using the argon spectrometer method, so a TDS meter will unfortunately never be suitable for this purpose. The bottom line is that you can save yourself the money that you would spend on a TDS meter by simply investing it in a good water distiller, which, if you keep it clean, will always give you precisely the same conductivity and purity every time you use it, and that is all you need, though you can satisfy your own curiosity from time to time if you wish to verify consistency of quality of the sols you produce by submitting further samples to a lab for testing, and this would definitely be advisable in a clinical setting, though there is no need to go over the top here for those on a limited budget, for the average home user for instance, as long as they are not facing some life-threatening pathogen demanding the use of ion cluster sizes of , when you can see consistent ppm values using this array of equipment.
Colour of the fluid itself is a good indicator, totally clear to the very faintest hint of golden-yellow is the best indication of suitable fine particle size able to penetrate any cell wall in the body. A further tip is not ever to use plastic bottles, as plastic contains a charged hydrocarbon molecule that will attract the silver ions and make them stick to the side of the bottle wall, and I have seen this several times in some manufacturer’s products as a yellowing below the waterline on clear plastic containers (forget tinted plastic containers) of silver sol where the ions have been attracted by an opposite electric charge within the plastic and coated the inside of the bottle due to lack of knowledge of this fact. Using the times and other conditions I present you with here, I consistently obtain a perfectly clear sol, which has a very discernible effect when you hold it in your mouth, as you can taste it, and as it goes straight to your head so to speak and you can feel a slight uplifting change in your consciousness, not merely from the silver affecting your chakras (there are 32 above the head according to Vedic studies of the human subtle body), but also possibly from the pathogenic organisms, such as candida, being terminated in the brain, allowing much clearer thinking.
In original studies on the effectiveness of silver sol by Searle, surface wounds showed massive improvement using concentrations as high as 20,000 ppm and much more. Silver will kill single-celled organisms and single cells in the tissue of your skin, so use it wisely; for instance if you place a bandage soaked in it on your skin, upon taking it off you will find that although you only intended to treat a small cut, although the deep cut is sterilized and healed, the surface layer of skin around it is dead, though this will leave no scarring. Burns victims do not seem to suffer from this effect at all, as patients with great tissue loss will grow new skin back faster and with less scarring than usual by using dressings soaked with sol; obviously the tissue regrowth process, artificially spurred by the silver, outpaces even the entirely superficial process of killing the most superficial layer of skin, with even less scarring than not using silver at all would result in. This is from my own experience; most other people just copy what other people have written, and I have meticulously studied the original research material by Alfred Searle contained in the library of the Wellcome Medical Research Library in London in England, as well as conducting experiments on my own person.
Useful to know is to remove the charcoal filter from the nozzle housing on your water distiller if it has one, most do, as the charcoal will continually produce a very fine dust that will add to your distilled water and many of the silver ions will stick to the dust particles, reducing its effectiveness and shelf life, as well as producing unusable large ionic clusters during the manufacturing process itself. Always cover your equipment during the manufacturing process too, to prevent any other dust landing in the water for this reason. Also, if using a glass beaker of distilled water placed in an external water bath, use distilled water in the external water bath too, to prevent tap water vapour containing 550-750 ppm of other elements from entering the beaker containing the silver electrodes and corrupting the process. I experimented using single, double and triple-distilled water in the beaker, and the double and triple-distilled water produced extremely poor results; this is because the water must still have a small amount of electrolyte in it to allow an electrical current to cross between the 2 sets of electrodes, so your distilled water does not want to be perfectly pure.
Also noteworthy is that each different brand of water distiller will produce a slightly different purity of water, and how pure your water source is to begin with will also have some part in this, altering the electrolytic quality of the water, also if you don’t keep your distiller clean, then the scale in the unit will alter the purity of the distilled water, again affecting your eventual ppm value of the sol. I use an Ecowater distiller myself, producing well under 1 ppm (no ppm value, or zero, was detected in distilled water at all from the Ecowater distiller using a TDS meter, which are not in any way capable of measuring ppm value of silver in a sol by the way, not having been in any way designed for that purpose). Manufacturers of upper range laboratory water distillers will all display exactly the ppm value of distilled water that they are capable of producing consistently, and there is a considerable difference, so just calibrate your equipment using one type of distiller. I think the particular model I use is no longer in production, however, a comparable obtainable distiller is the Megahome 943SBS Deluxe Water Distiller, or similar models available from H2O Labs in the UK.
A further tip regarding the distilled water you make is that it should be placed in a sealed container immediately after the distiller has finished working, to minimize oxygen absorption, as the more oxygen there is in the water, the more silver oxide you will produce, which though not toxic, is of very limited therapeutic value, and the presence of it will cause the electrolytic process to speed up dramatically and throw your test sample results right out when you are trying to calibrate your equipment. You can see what oxygen does when you leave a glass of silver sol exposed to the air, the silver ions in it will turn rapidly to silver oxide, lose their charge and thus their Brownian motion, then bottom out, producing a visible darkness in the sol, or what remains of it. Keep air exposure during manufacture at an absolute minimum for the highest and longest lasting silver sol quality. The food grade BPA free plastic water container with the H2O Lab distiller has a sealable top ideal for this purpose, whereas the glass carafe does not available with it as an alternative does not.
The instructions I have written here are comprehensive enough to enable you to make pharmaceutical grade silver sol of repeatable quality, in terms of providing the same ppm value each time (with wearing-down of electrodes not even noticeable after many runs), which is necessary if you want good therapeutic results, and would be the basis of a small unit suitable for use on a charitable basis in any home or hospital throughout the world. The laboratory oven version I suggest would be extremely suitable for hospital use, in terms of ease of use and in terms of producing an entirely dust-free sol suitable for intravenous use. You can find several laboratory oven manufacturers on the internet who can supply ovens of the particular size and capability that you require, who will also be willing, for a very small price to modify the oven for you with a hole in the back to admit the wiring. If proposing to a manufacturer the construction of a large number of units, then money can be saved by putting in a more limited range temperature control device rather than buying ovens with a much wider and unnecessary temperature range at greater expense.
If anyone is interested in the idea of working with a laboratory oven, they can email me if they want some help figuring out any details. I would love to see either the laboratory oven version, or the water bath and thermostat version of the silver sol making apparatus used in every hospital, producing fresh silver sol for use in burns units, and to provide assistance in combatting antibiotic resistant pathogens. Any hospitals interested are most welcome to contact me.
This information is entirely free, no money involved, and is intended to be relayed to all others on a charitable basis also, entirely free of charge. I welcome suggestions on improvement of my design, though I regard oxygen pumps (oxygen will just react to produce silver oxide), and graduated voltage circuits (entirely without value – especially so when using a large number of electrodes as I do here), and stirrers (they can disturb chunks of deposit on the electrodes into the sol, spoiling it) as entirely superfluous. Some stirrer devices that I have seen in some designs that are for sale have magnets incorporated, in the form of a lozenge-shaped plastic coated magnet that rests in the bottom of the beaker while a motorized spinning magnet beneath that causes the magnet in the beaker to spin round, and magnets should never ever be placed anywhere near a sol, as they will adversely affect the charged silver ions and cause them to bind together into larger clusters and eventually bottom out. That silver ions are affected by magnets is something I personally have not experimented with, but have taken it as fact from other researchers who claim it to be true, and as I see no real reason to stick magnets near a sol then it is a very easy and simple precaution to take to avoid them.
There are numerous energizing devices to re-pattern water used in silver sol making, that do not use magnets. Silver sol has a very highly energized frequency anyway, though addition of further frequencies can be programmed in to the sol if required.
ADDITIONAL NOTE: Recently in May 2012 I read an account by one maker of silver sol who was in the habit of adding a frequency to his silver sol, presumably to re-pattern the distilled water used in the process, by passing the freshly made sol though a spiral tube or funnel containing magnets in the middle; when he dismantled the apparatus after some time, he noticed that the part of the funnel that had been situated over the magnets had become covered with a silvery deposit, so it is extremely clear from this evidence that silver ions are drawn to magnets.
The conclusion is clear; avoid any equipment using magnetic stirrers or you will spoil your silver sol, making much larger groups of ions than you would normally, which will then ‘seed’ the other ions to also form much larger groups, and these in turn will bottom out much more quickly. Larger particles are in fact still of some good use though, being more suitable for heavy surface wounds, in concentrations even of several thousand ppm, according to Searle, who had great success with infected wounds and so on in animals; however, you will possibly get argyria locally from a topical application of this heavy concentration of silver sol, unless you have darker skin which will make this unnoticeable. Jewelery manufacturers who work regularly with silver often get localized argyria on whichever fingers they usually touch the silver with. Obviously this type of usage of silver sol is better suited to animals whose skin will be covered with fur afterwards.
Some manufacturers even have electrodes which are ‘self-cleaning’, by actually alternating the polarity of the current during the manufacturing process, so that all the deposits on the electrodes are cast into the sol, which is daft because many of the rest of the ions in the sol will gather onto those particles and bottom out.
For simplicity, to avoid the fussy setting-up of the external water bath method, I recommend that anyone interested go straight for a laboratory oven, with internal temperature regulator; I have calculated that they will produce a sol only slightly less repeatedly accurate than the more accurate water bath method with a Techne regulator is capable of, with the oven method giving a sol that is around plus or minus 0.2 ppm either way, so producing a sol of, say 8.2 ppm or 7.8 ppm for instance, compared with a repeatable 8 ppm obtainable with the Techne equipment (or whatever different ppm value you wish to set the equipment to make after calibrating it). You will want an oven with a metal door, sides, top and bottom to prevent light interfering with the process, and this option is much cheaper than having an insulated glass anyway. Laboratory equipment suppliers supply dozens of different models; also allow sufficient room for the electrode block to sit on top of the 2 litre beaker allowing plenty of room for all the wires to the 12 electrodes to fit easily. I use the Techne method myself for research purposes, it being the most accurate. For temperature testing of the water in the external bath and in the beaker (I get the temperature in both of them identical at 32 degrees C before switching on the current to the electrodes), I use two thermometers, one in the external bath permanently, and the other removed from the beaker when the temperature is right to begin. Make sure that you buy an easily readable thermometers the right length so that the relevant part of the temperature band on the thermometer can easily be read when the thermometer is hanging down in the bath next to the Techne thermoregulator.
When using the oven method, you will only need to buy one thermometer, to test the temperature of the water in the beaker before you put it in the oven, to be able to calibrate your equipment quite accurately enough by making sure you put the beaker of distilled water in the oven at the right temperature in the first place. You would use that to check the beaker temperature as you warm it up in a bowl of hot water before transferring the beaker to the oven.
The two thermometers I use with the Techne thermoregulator and water bath are mercury bulb (most accurate), about 40cm long, 10 centimetre immersion (the length required to be immersed to get a reading), and 0-40 degrees C, Each degree is divided into 10 parts, with a degree covering 7 millimetres or so, so you can see very accurately what your external water bath and beaker temperature temps are. The actual temperature measurements on the thermometer are spaced over 30 centimetres. The Techne is set at 32 degrees, and a light shows anyway when the external water bath temperature has reached 32 degrees; I place an additional thermometer in the external water bath merely to tell me how fast the water in the bath is approaching 32 degrees C, as this is not so easy when trying to judge just by waiting for a light to stop flashing on the Techne. I use a second thermometer to enable me to put a beaker of distilled water in a bowl of hot water (not on a stove – but previously heated) and raise it to 32 degrees very quickly before transferring it to the water bath being heated by the Techne unit, saving much time, as time exposed to air is very important (if a sol is left exposed to air for a week or two after manufacture it will turn brownish grey, so we can see from this that oxygen exposure must be limited to preserve the quality of the sol. Also too much exposure to air during the manufacturing process and the additional oxygen dramatically changes the conductivity of the sol, also producing silver oxide, throwing out all calculations for time and temperature. So always do things as quickly as possible once the water is exposed to air. The Techne has a light that comes on when the temp in the water bath has reached the temp you ask for (32 degrees).
For more everyday non-medical uses, such as sterilizing toothbrushes and treatment of mould on plants and household surfaces, an extra set of electrodes of much lower purity could be used, 99.9% would suffice. I am considering a little experimentation the next time I decorate by mixing silver sol into kitchen and bathroom emulsion paint to prevent the growth of mould on damp walls, it should go well with organic paint I think to keep it mould free.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/05/100520141206.htm This article shows how heat affects Brownian motion, accelerating it, so to keep your silver sol in top condition, always keep it as warm as possible, so the particles will bounce off each other as fast as possible and not slow down and clump together in big clusters of ions. Note; the manufacturing process itself should not be too hot, as that makes big chunks of ions come off the electrodes all at once. As previously stated, a stirrer is not required during manufacture, as the ions will move in an extremely rapid manner to equalize pressure of ions throughout the 2 litre beaker; denser clusters won’t just hang around waiting for a shove by a stirrer to make them disperse, they will very rapidly space themselves out equally throughout the manufacturing beaker.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brownian_motion This shows the speed of Brownian motion; you will realize just how fast these ions are moving when they each make in the order of collisions per second, very fast indeed, so the ions will very quickly bounce off each other and push each other around to create a relatively equal dispersion, or density of particles per cubic centimetre throughout the entire sol being manufactured in the beaker.
Phew, Just worked that out, it comes to: 10,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 collisions per second, so the ions are moving very vast indeed, much too fast to be influenced even in the slightest degree by a stirrer.
Silver Bullet to Beat Cancer?
ScienceDaily (Feb. 2, 2012) — The Internet is awash with stories of how silver can be used to treat cancer. Now, lab tests have shown that it is as effective as the leading chemotherapy drug — and may have fewer side-effects
‘How Silver Turns People Blue’
ScienceDaily (Oct. 29, 2012) — Ingesting silver — in antimicrobial health tonics or for extensive medical treatments involving silver — can cause argyria, condition in which the skin turns grayish-blue. Brown researchers have discovered how that happens. The process is similar to developing black-and-white photographs, and it’s not just the silver.
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2012/10/121030143029.htm Take this last report with a ‘pinch of salt’ if you like; I thought it only fair to include it. As I have mentioned in my article, I have consumed many litres of silver sol (colloidal silver) and have not got the faintest hint of discolouration of my skin. I am a regular sunbather too, whenever the climate permits, despite regular chemtrailing turning the whole summer sky into a grey haze more often than not these days.
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