Mothman777's Blog

SBO’s And Silver Sols, And How To Manufacture Your Own Silver Sol

September 16th 2011

SBO’s, or Soil-Based Organisms, offer a huge range of microorganisms to replace missing gut bacteria. Also, these organisms are naturally present in freshly drawn well or spring water that is not chlorinated or otherwise sterilized, and they will massively boost your resistance to cancer and pathogenic diseases.

Raw milk contains colostrum, which is a natural immune booster that has been employed in India for the treatment of leukaemia, though colostrum is destroyed by pasteurization or any other heating. In desert campaigns in the second world war, many thousands of German soldiers were lost due to dysentery, when keen observers noticed the native inhabitants did not suffer a similar fate. This they achieved by swallowing a small portion of fresh camel droppings, rich with natural gut bacteria (80% of our immune system is based on the microflora in our gut). The organisms responsible for this beneficial effect were then isolated and then administered to the German troops and there were no further fatalities from dysentery. Phage medicine is used in Russia too, where they have discovered that a germ exists in nature to kill any other germ, so hospital waste from patients is analysed and all microorganisms isolated are then cultured and then tested for their ability to overcome pathogenic organisms. So, in Russia, patients are consulted on whether or not they want vaccines and antibiotics, or whether they would instead prefer nature’s own predators to take care of the problem. Natural organisms exist to overcome virtually every known disease, for instance, poliomyelitis, diphtheria etc.

The best way to avoid pathogenic disease is to understand the essential pleomorphic nature of all microorganisms. Each virus can change into a germ, then a fungus, or mould, then a cancer; this being verifiable using live blood specimens under a dark field microscope. These organisms are not bad in themselves, so the concept of the necessity of a ‘clean’ bodily system is erroneous; all organisms start off the same way as beneficial to the system, but when an acidic and oxygen and mineral deficient bodily environment starts to predominate, then ‘friendly’ bacteria mutate into ‘hostile’ ones, to begin the process of breaking down the bodily tissues back into the soil to be recycled and taken on by other souls as their external bodies. This is not a hostile process at all in fact; as the signal is being given by lack of maintenance of bodily health by the individual that the body is dying and no longer required, and simply needs to be broken down to be used by someone else.

Several years ago I was requested to design a method of producing silver sol, with equipment that would be easy to use, compact, and be suitable to use in hospitals to produce fresh silver sol for use in every hospital ward that it might be needed on. With the increasing emergence of diseases that are multiple antibiotic resistant, silver sol should again become prominent in the field of disease prevention and cure as it once was before the advent of antibiotics. The idea was to provide equipment that would bypass the need for purchasing silver sol at exorbitant prices from pharmaceutical companies, using a totally repeatable method to ensure reasonable constancy of particle size and ppm values, at a cost so cheap that it would make a vast difference, particularly in third world countries where per capita incomes are extremely low, often less than 1% of our own.

I will introduce you to the equipment I used to do this, and also to the very simple variation on this method, which is the final design that I propose would be suitable to be used for this purpose, as well as for domestic users who would like to construct their own. In absolute emergencies of course, particularly in poorer foreign countries where no equipment of even the simplest type is available, the simple expedient of a very basic set up using 3 x 9 volt batteries (providing 27 volts) connected to even 99.9% silver electrodes in a glass of warm distilled or even reverse osmosis filtered water will still produce a somewhat effective sol, albeit of very varying quality, sufficient perhaps even for full resolution of some conditions, including some systemic conditions, at the very least certainly giving excellent resolution of superficial skin conditions and infected wounds and so on. To enter inside cells within the body, to address internal conditions of pathogenic origin, a significant proportion of clusters of silver ions must be of a very limited size range, hence my recommendation for more accurate equipment for manufacturing silver sol. For regular treatments, constancy of quality would become of paramount importance, particularly in such applications as intravenous usage to treat blood leukaemia. One excellent research company, Natural-Immunogenics, has claimed a 98% removal of leukaemia cells in vivo using silver sol, in 24 hours (possibly either by reversal of those cells to normal cells, or by their destruction).

I have manufactured ‘colloidal’ (more properly termed ionic or even sol) silver using 99.999% pure silver in single-distilled water using 27 volts DC with an AC/DC converter for constant voltage to obtain reproducible quality, at a constant temperature using 2 litres of water in a non-reactive borosilicate glass ‘low form’ 2000 ml Schott Duran beaker in an external water bath at a constant temperature of 32 degrees C using a Techne  laboratory temperature controller, in complete darkness, for 70 minutes with an array of 12 electrodes cut from two metres of 2mm silver wire, set in a varnished piece of wood, and then submitting various 20 CC (cubic centimetre) samples to a university lab to ascertain the exact ppm quantity of silver in the water to properly calibrate the equipment for constant ppm value in the future. Using 28 degrees temperature and 27 volts DC for 70 minutes will give you a sol of 5 ppm or so.

I supplied these samples for testing after first settling on a suitable temperature that I could easily maintain throughout the year, considering that summer temperatures might exceed a lower limit set during the summer months, so I decided on 32 degrees C, a temperature I could easily stick to even in hotter weather just by making silver sol at night when it is cooler. I selected the electrode array to have the electrodes as far apart as possible in two parallel lines so as to make the process as slow as  possible to ensure the finest particle size, with the same size particles coming from all electrodes (hence not having electrodes in two half-moon arrays on opposite sides of the beaker). Then I ran a batch of tests using the equipment at 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75 and 80 minutes, (tests are cheaper in batches, as setting the argon plasma equipment up is the most time-consuming thing, even if the test is just of one sample, so get a good few done, and draw a curved line through all the results on graph paper to select what you are aiming for, 8 ppm, 10 ppm or whatever. Just do three tests if this works out cheaper, say at 50, 65 and 80 minutes, or at 50, 70 and 90 minutes, it should cost around £100 for 3 tests.

An alternative method of manufacture is to place the beaker within a lab oven with 1 hole (or 2 holes if you prefer) drilled in it through the back of the oven (the laboratory oven manufacturer will be happy to put these in for you to allow the wires to be placed through from the electrodes to the power source. Two copper wires in plastic cable sufficiently thick to transmit 27 volts can be connected to 12 wires, (6 to either side of the block of wood through which the electrodes are placed, through 2mm holes, with each electrode connected to the wires through 12 small metal conductive clamps. The wire used can all be of the same thickness. Additionally, as an alternative method of connecting the electrodes to their power source, you can solder a copper wire over the tops of each of the two strips of electrodes, so you just have one clip to attach to each side of the block of electrodes, though make sure that equal current still reaches all the electrodes if you do this method.

When you receive your 2 metres of silver 2mm thick wire, it will be in a coil, so you will need to straighten it all out. You will notice that there are usually one or two centimetres extra, so measure the full length and divide that with a pair of pliers into 12 equal lengths. Then, using some small pliers bend 8-9 millimetres over at the end in an approximate right angle (it is best if this is not flat, but sticks up a bit to present a better connection for the electric clamps that relay to the DC unit – be very careful to get this right first time, as attempting to bend it again might stress the metal too much and possibly even snap it). Varnish the wooden block that you will use to hold the electrodes before you insert the silver electrode wires into into it, to prevent the possibility of any moisture from the process getting into the wood and warping the block or causing a short (when cleaning the electrode block I sometimes rinse it, but water vapour may eventually warp the wood unless you seal it with polyurethane varnish. When the varnish is completely dry, push the wire through the 2mm holes for the electric clamps to attach to. 2mm holes are perfect; the wire will go through perfectly with a very tight fit and be difficult to move, which is good. You can put a small notch in the upper ends of 6 of the electrodes that you have bent over, so you can note which set you used for cathodes each time and change the polarity over after each run to ensure equal wearing away of the electrodes (remembering to keep a small notebook for this purpose, noting also the time length, temperature and voltage used also, in case you don’t use the equipment for a long time and forget your original settings).

The piece of wood for the electrodes can be 20 centimetres long, by 6.5 centimetres wide, by 8mm thick, though you can use wood maybe very slightly thinner if you like, but I found 8mm to be sturdy, not allowing any loosening of the electrodes, thus keeping the electrodes firmly set at equal distance from each other, for constancy of the process.

First centre the wood, from each end, putting a line though the centre, then mark out 6 parallel lines, 3 out from each side of the centre line, making the first 2 lines each 1 centimetre out from the central line, then making 2 further lines each 2 cm out from the previous lines on each side of the central line.

Then centre the wood from each side, and draw 2 straight lines 5.6 centimetres apart, to ensure that the electrodes are as far apart as possible when they hang down into the beaker, and also to ensure that the array will stabilize the block of electrodes on the top of the beaker.  You should have 2 parallel lines 10 centimetres long, 5.6 centimetres apart, in the centre of your block of wood; this will leave about 5 mm margin at each side of the wood block, with 5 centimetres left empty at the end of each side of the block. Another little tip, is to glue a couple of wooden struts across the back of the wooden block in which the electrodes are set, at both ends,  that is a 6.5 centimetres by 3 cm by approximately 1 centimetre thick piece of wood glued on top of the block at each end, and a central block of wood 3 centimetres wide by 13.5 centimetres long by approximately 1 centimetre deep to prevent the possibility of the block warping and putting the electrodes getting closer or further apart, which would also alter conductivity and thus the time required to obtain the ppm you want. The Techne (or whatever other laboratory company’s temperature regulator you may use) temperature regulator pumps water around the external bath, causing vibration to the whole apparatus, so you need a good margin of wood for stability on top of the glass beaker and to allow you sufficient area to grab the electrode block with your hand to lift it out easily at the end of each run. Also bear in mind that when the water is pumped around the external water bath, it will be pushed up higher in some places against the sides of the tank, so you need to calculate sufficient height for the tank walls to prevent water spilling over.

Drill 12 holes where the lines intersect. You will have 2mm wide holes drilled through the wood every 2 centimetres, the first at the beginning of each 10 cm line, then each of the rest of the 6 holes every 2 cm with the last of the 6 holes at the end of the 10cm line, on each side of the wood in 2 straight parallel lines (12 holes in all), 5.6 centimeters apart.

After drinking large quantities of the left overs from all the tests I was doing,  2 litre beakerfulls at a time, only 20ml of each of which was required to be submitted for laboratory analysis, I did get a sterile gut, so colloidal silver sols should be used with extreme caution. They are great for treating wounds and burns, and leukaemia blood cancer cells have been 98% eradicated in 24 hours using intravenous sol silver in validated medical tests, so it does have a lot of promise, but not for gut flora though. Use SBO’s from some manufacturer or get them naturally from freshly drawn spring or well water. 99.999% pure silver wire can be obtained from Alfa Aesar, a division of Matthey Johnson in Germany.

Look up Alfa Aesar and give them a ring in Germany. The phone number is freephone, though it may be different now, 0080045664566. I had to pay for the wire through Deutsche Bank. I recommend to you buying 2 meters of 99.999% pure silver. 2mm thick. The product number was 11465 at the time I made a purchase there. They will only sell to registered companies,so if you don’t own your own business, ask a friend who does to order for you. In fact you can request a product catalogue from them, and you will see the amazing variety of things they produce, and get the current catalogue number there and everything you need. I made my equipment years ago so catalogue numbers will have changed for everything.

Silver sol must always be stored in complete darkness, use not only dark glass but a cupboard or a cardboard cylinder in addition, or the silver ions will accept additional electrons from the light, even through dark glass, and bottom out, becoming much less effective; remember, if you can see through the glass, electrons of light can pass through the glass also and damage the sol. Different pathogenic organisms and the organs in which they are situated may each respond to slightly differing ionic cluster sizes. Some researchers gain good therapeutic results from ionic clusters generated in sols of as little as 2-3ppm. The information for equipment settings that I provide here at 32 degrees should produce a sol of around 8ppm, and 28 degrees should produce a sol of around 5 ppm with the same time and voltage of 27 volts, though the individual water distiller that you use will make distilled water of a different conductivity to mine, to produce a slight variation on this figure. 14ppm is the boundary at which the clusters of ions reach such a size that they can no longer pass through a tissue cell wall, so for applications requiring ionic cluster sizes able to enter any cell, go for less than 14ppm.

A study in the Czech Republic emphasised the effectiveness of silver ions in destroying MRSA, including strains that were multiple drug resistant, as well as the great importance of ensuring small sizes of clusters of ions, sufficiently small enough to penetrate cell walls and the pathogens inside.  The study was conducted by the Department of Physical Chemistry at Palacky University, and was later republished in the  Journal of Physical Chemistry  in August 2006, titled “Silver colloidal nanoparticles: synthesis, characterization, and their antibacterial activity”. This life-saving quality of small particle sizes of silver ion clusters emphasises the importance of ensuring the production of them, rather than just an imprecise mixture of sizes. To make double sure of effectiveness, freshly manufactured sols would be of the greatest benefit, to ensure that clusters of ions have not been gradually bonding together and thus becoming less effective, hence the idea of freshly made sols becoming available in hospitals around the world; such attention to ion cluster size and freshness can mean the difference between life and death in cases where a potentially fatal pathogenic organism is to be eradicated.

“…silver particles with a narrow size distribution with an average size of 25 nm, which showed high antimicrobial and bactericidal activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, including highly multi-resistant strains such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA).” The study further demonstrated that very low concentrations of silver could be utilized to destroy MRSA, as long as the silver particles were very small, averaging 25 nm.

Also be aware that ppm means nothing when a sol is made too fast, the slower the better, as long as the process is not so slow that the water is exposed to oxygen for too long, as this too will also cause the sol to turn yellow brown and the oxidised particles to bottom out. 70 minutes is safe, and sufficiently brief a period to minimize the mixing of additional oxygen into the sol, so avoiding formation of silver oxide, whilst being a sufficiently long enough period with such a large number of electrodes to produce a very fine particle size. There should be no oxides coming off the electrodes during the process, though when lifting the electrodes from the water, a very small number of tiny flakes of oxide will often get disturbed  and get washed off  in to the sol, usually just 2 or 3 in my experience. Because they initially float on the surface, unless further disturbed, you can easily fish any little floating flakes from the surface of the sol that drop from the electrodes before bottling and do not refrigerate it;  the continuous excitation of Brownian motion is favoured in fact by being kept in a warm place, not a cold one. A further note; when changing the temperature of your water before manufacturing the sol, remember that the rate at which silver ions will leave the silver rods (on one side) will double approximately with every 10 degrees Fahrenheit increase in temperature. If you wish, should the minor dislodging of oxides from the electrodes be a problem for you, add a further metre of silver wire, having 9 electrodes on each side of the block instead of 6 electrodes, and the overall deposition of oxides will be distributed further and thus be more stable on the electrodes when lifting the electrodes out; 2mm silver wire is sold by Alfa Aesar by the metre.  Adding more than 9 electrodes each side would make the process of cleaning them properly too difficult, as your fingers need to get between them. Exposure to air will be minimized in the relatively sealed environment of an oven, so you could also try lower voltages to make the process a little more gradual to reduce the deposits on the electrodes, but I am highly doubtful that the end result will be any less oxide. A further alternative is to stop the procedure during the process, take the electrodes out, polish them and put them back in the beaker before resuming the process.

Another tip to prevent excessive wearing of one set of your rods is to rotate them every time you manufacture, so that the anode electrodes are used as the cathode electrodes the next time around, to give even wearage.

Only clean oxides off the electrodes just before each manufacturing run; use a very soft scrubber (a very old one is good for this) to clean off the toughest oxides, then use an old handkerchief to remove the remainder, pressing hard, and you will get loads more oxide and loose silver disturbed by the scrubbing cloth coming off, even though you thought you had cleaned them properly before, leaving a blackish deposit on the handkerchief. If you clean the oxides off the electrodes and then leave them for a few days before you use them again, your cleaning them will have served little purpose, as the silver electrodes will quickly tarnish again in the air, and you will have to polish them again, wasting more silver. Doing this ensures that no big chunks of silver and oxide will come off the electrodes disturbing the process and throwing your intended results right out, as any remaining particles coming off the electrodes will considerably alter the rate of electrolysis and cause your sol to have much larger ion cluster size and to bottom out much faster. If you make it right it will maintain Brownian motion and its therapeutic quality for much longer.

ppm can mean nothing at all, as in a lab, a silver sol containing clusters of ions is dissolved into single ions by adding nitric acid, and the solution then aspirated as a fine vapour under pressure into an argon plasma flame at very high temperature, analyzing the spectrum of colour, to measure the total quantity of silver in the fluid, whether it was 10 ppm contained in a few million groups of ions by making your sol in 2 minutes, or whether it contained 10 ppm contained in many billions of smaller groups of ions obtained by a manufacturing time of 70 minutes or so will produce exactly the same colour flame.

In relation to finding ppm value of your sol, bear in mind that a cluster of 10,000 ions will have exactly the same outer charge as a cluster of 10 ions, so the conductivity of the water as affected by these equal charges on these varying sized clusters which a TDS meter will measure cannot really give any genuine approximation as to the amount of silver present, and that is from a conversation I had with the university professor who did my original calibration tests for me using the argon spectrometer method, so a TDS meter will unfortunately never be suitable for this purpose. The bottom line is that you can save yourself the money that you would spend on a TDS meter by simply investing it in a good water distiller, which, if you keep it clean, will always give you precisely the same conductivity and purity every time you use it, and that is all you need, though you can satisfy your own curiosity from time to time if you wish to verify consistency of quality of the sols you produce by submitting further samples to a lab for testing, and this would definitely be advisable in a clinical setting, though there is no need to go over the top here for those on a limited budget, for the average home user for instance, as long as they are not facing some life-threatening pathogen demanding the use of ion cluster sizes of , when you can see consistent ppm values using this array of equipment.

Colour of the fluid itself is a good indicator, totally clear to the very faintest hint of golden-yellow is the best indication of suitable fine particle size able to penetrate any cell wall in the body. A further tip is not ever to use plastic bottles, as plastic contains a charged hydrocarbon molecule  that will attract  the silver ions and make them stick to the side of the bottle wall, and I have seen this several times in some manufacturer’s products as a yellowing below the waterline on clear plastic containers  (forget tinted plastic containers)  of silver sol where the ions have been attracted by an opposite electric charge within the plastic and coated the inside of the bottle due to lack of knowledge of this fact.  Using the times and other conditions I present you with here, I consistently obtain a perfectly clear sol, which has a very discernible effect when you hold it in your mouth, as you can taste it, and as it goes straight to your head so to speak and you can feel a slight uplifting change in your consciousness, not merely from the silver affecting your chakras (there are 32 above the head according to Vedic studies of the human subtle body), but also possibly from the pathogenic organisms, such as candida, being terminated in the brain, allowing much clearer thinking.

In original  studies on the effectiveness of silver sol by Searle, surface wounds showed massive improvement using concentrations as high as 20,000 ppm and much more. Silver will kill single-celled organisms and single cells in the tissue of your skin, so use it wisely; for instance if you place a bandage soaked in it on your skin, upon taking it off you will find that although you only intended to treat a small cut, although the deep cut is sterilized and healed, the surface layer of skin around it is dead, though this will leave no scarring. Burns victims do not seem to suffer from this effect at all, as patients with great tissue loss will grow new skin back faster and with less scarring than usual by using dressings soaked with sol; obviously the tissue regrowth process, artificially spurred by the silver, outpaces even the entirely superficial process of killing the most superficial layer of skin, with even less scarring than not using silver at all would result in. This is from my own experience; most other people just copy what other people have written, and I have meticulously studied the original research material by Alfred Searle contained in the library of the Wellcome Medical Research Library in London in England, as well as conducting experiments on my own person.

Useful to know is to remove the charcoal filter from the nozzle housing on your water distiller if it has one, most do, as the charcoal will continually produce a very fine dust that will add to your distilled water and many of the silver ions will stick to the dust particles, reducing its effectiveness and shelf life, as well as producing unusable large ionic clusters during the manufacturing process itself. Always cover your equipment during the manufacturing process too, to prevent any other dust landing in the water for this reason. Also, if using a glass beaker of distilled water placed in an external water bath, use distilled water in the external water bath too, to prevent tap water vapour containing 550-750 ppm of other elements from entering the beaker containing the silver electrodes and corrupting the process. I experimented using single, double and triple-distilled water in the beaker, and the double and triple-distilled water produced extremely poor results; this is because the water must still have a small amount of electrolyte in it to allow an electrical current to cross between the 2 sets of electrodes, so your distilled water does not want to be perfectly pure.

Also noteworthy is that each different brand of water distiller will produce a slightly different purity of water, and how pure your water source is to begin with will also have some part in this, altering the electrolytic quality of the water, also if you don’t keep your distiller clean, then the scale in the unit will alter the purity of the distilled water, again affecting your eventual ppm value of the sol. I use an Ecowater distiller myself, producing well under 1 ppm (no ppm value, or zero, was detected in distilled water at all from the Ecowater distiller using a TDS meter, which are not in any way capable of measuring ppm value of silver in a sol by the way, not having been in any way designed for that purpose).  Manufacturers of upper range laboratory water distillers will all display exactly the ppm value of distilled water that they are capable of producing consistently, and there is a considerable difference, so just calibrate your equipment using one type of distiller. I think the particular model I use is no longer in production, however, a comparable obtainable distiller is the Megahome  943SBS Deluxe Water Distiller, or similar models available from H2O Labs in the UK.

A further tip regarding the distilled water you make is that it should be placed in a sealed container immediately after the distiller has finished working, to minimize oxygen absorption, as the more oxygen there is in the water, the more silver oxide you will produce, which though not toxic, is of very limited therapeutic value, and the presence of it will cause the electrolytic process to speed up dramatically and throw your test sample results right out when you are trying to calibrate your equipment. You can see what oxygen does when you leave a glass of silver sol exposed to the air, the silver ions in it will turn rapidly to silver oxide, lose their charge and thus their Brownian motion, then bottom out, producing a visible darkness in the sol, or what remains of it. Keep air exposure during manufacture at an absolute minimum for the highest and longest lasting silver sol quality. The food grade BPA free plastic water container with the H2O Lab distiller has a sealable top ideal for this purpose, whereas the glass carafe does not available with it as an alternative does not.

The instructions I have written here are comprehensive enough to enable you to make pharmaceutical grade silver sol of repeatable quality, in terms of providing the same ppm value each time (with wearing-down of electrodes not even noticeable after many runs), which is necessary if you want good therapeutic results, and would be the basis of a small unit suitable for use on a charitable basis in any home or hospital throughout the world. The laboratory oven version I suggest would be extremely suitable for hospital use, in terms of ease of use and in terms of producing an entirely dust-free sol suitable for intravenous use. You can find several laboratory oven manufacturers on the internet who can supply ovens of the particular size and capability that you require, who will also be willing, for a very small price to modify the oven for you with a hole in the back to admit the wiring. If proposing to a manufacturer the construction of a large number of units, then money can be saved by putting in a more limited range temperature control device rather than buying ovens with a much wider and unnecessary temperature range at greater expense.

If anyone is interested in the idea of working with a laboratory oven, they can email me if they want some help figuring out any details. I would love to see either the laboratory oven version, or the water bath and thermostat version of the silver sol making apparatus used in every hospital, producing fresh silver sol for use in burns units, and to provide assistance in combatting antibiotic resistant pathogens. Any hospitals interested are most welcome to contact me.

This information is entirely free, no money involved, and is intended to be relayed to all others on a charitable basis also, entirely free of charge. I welcome suggestions on improvement of my design, though I regard oxygen pumps (oxygen will just react to produce silver oxide), and graduated voltage circuits (entirely without value – especially so when using a large number of electrodes as I do here), and stirrers (they can disturb chunks of deposit on the electrodes into the sol, spoiling it) as entirely superfluous. Some stirrer devices that I have seen in some designs that are for sale have magnets incorporated, in the form of a lozenge-shaped plastic coated magnet that rests in the bottom of the beaker while a motorized spinning magnet beneath that causes the magnet in the beaker to spin round, and magnets should never ever be placed anywhere near a sol, as they will adversely affect the charged silver ions and cause them to bind together into larger clusters and eventually bottom out. That silver ions are affected by magnets is something I personally have not experimented with, but have taken it as fact from other researchers who claim it to be true, and as I see no real reason to stick magnets near a sol then it is a very easy and simple precaution to take to avoid them.

There are numerous energizing devices to re-pattern water used in silver sol making, that do not use magnets. Silver sol has a very highly energized frequency anyway, though addition of further frequencies can be programmed in to the sol if required.

ADDITIONAL NOTE: Recently in May 2012 I read an account by one maker of silver sol who was in the habit of adding a frequency to his silver sol, presumably to re-pattern the distilled water used in the process, by passing the freshly made sol though a spiral tube or funnel containing magnets in the middle; when he dismantled the apparatus after some time, he noticed that the part of the funnel that had been situated over the magnets had become covered with a silvery deposit, so it is extremely clear from this evidence that silver ions are drawn to magnets.

The conclusion is clear; avoid any equipment using magnetic stirrers or you will spoil your silver sol, making much larger groups of ions than you would normally, which will then ‘seed’ the other ions to also form much larger groups, and these in turn will bottom out much more quickly. Larger particles are in fact still of some good use though, being more suitable for heavy surface wounds, in concentrations even of several thousand ppm, according to Searle, who had great success with infected wounds and so on in animals; however, you will possibly get argyria locally from a topical application of this heavy concentration of silver sol, unless you have darker skin which will make this unnoticeable. Jewelery manufacturers who work regularly with silver often get localized argyria on whichever fingers they usually touch the silver with. Obviously this type of usage of silver sol is better suited to animals whose skin will be covered with fur afterwards.

Some manufacturers even have electrodes which are ‘self-cleaning’, by actually alternating the polarity of the current during the manufacturing process, so that all the deposits on the electrodes are cast into the sol, which is daft because many of  the rest of the ions in the sol will gather onto those particles and bottom out.

For simplicity, to avoid the fussy setting-up of the external water bath method, I recommend that anyone interested go straight for a laboratory oven, with internal temperature regulator; I have calculated that they will produce a sol only slightly less repeatedly accurate than the more accurate water bath method with a Techne regulator is capable of, with the oven method giving a sol that is around plus or minus 0.2 ppm either way, so producing a sol of, say 8.2 ppm or 7.8 ppm for instance, compared with a repeatable 8 ppm obtainable with the Techne equipment (or whatever different ppm value you wish to set the equipment to make after calibrating it). You will want an oven with a metal door, sides, top and bottom to prevent light interfering with the process, and this option is much cheaper than having an insulated glass anyway. Laboratory equipment suppliers supply dozens of different models; also allow sufficient room for the electrode block to sit on top of the 2 litre beaker allowing plenty of room for all the wires to the 12 electrodes to fit easily.  I use the Techne method myself for research purposes, it being the most accurate. For temperature testing of the water in the external bath and in the beaker (I get the temperature in both of them identical at 32 degrees C before switching on the current to the electrodes), I use two thermometers, one in the external bath permanently, and the other removed from the beaker when the temperature is right to begin. Make sure that you buy an easily readable thermometers the right length so that the relevant part of the temperature band on the thermometer can easily be read when the thermometer is hanging down in the bath next to the Techne thermoregulator.

When using the oven method, you will only need to buy one thermometer, to test the temperature of the water in the beaker before you put it in the oven, to be able to calibrate your equipment quite accurately enough by making sure you put the beaker of distilled water in the oven at the right temperature in the first place. You would use that to check the beaker temperature as you warm it up in a bowl of hot water before transferring the beaker to the oven.

The two  thermometers I use with the Techne thermoregulator and water bath are mercury bulb (most accurate), about 40cm long, 10 centimetre immersion (the length required to be immersed to get a reading), and 0-40 degrees C, Each degree is divided into 10 parts, with a degree covering 7 millimetres or so, so you can  see very accurately what your  external water bath and beaker temperature temps are. The actual temperature measurements on the thermometer are spaced over 30 centimetres. The Techne is set at 32 degrees, and a light shows anyway when the external water bath temperature has reached 32 degrees; I place an additional thermometer in the external water bath merely to tell me how fast the water in the bath is approaching 32 degrees C, as this is not so easy when trying to judge just by waiting for a light to stop flashing on the Techne. I use a second thermometer to enable me to put a beaker of distilled water in a bowl of hot water (not on a stove – but previously heated) and raise it to 32 degrees very quickly before transferring it to the water bath being heated by the Techne unit, saving much time, as time exposed to air is very important (if a sol is left exposed to air for a week or two after manufacture it will turn brownish grey, so we can see from this that oxygen exposure must be limited to preserve the quality of the sol. Also too much exposure to air during the manufacturing process and the additional oxygen dramatically changes the conductivity of the sol, also producing silver oxide, throwing out all calculations for time and temperature. So always do things as quickly as possible once the water is exposed to air. The Techne has a light that comes on when the temp in the water bath has reached the temp you ask for (32 degrees).

If you are operating the oven at near room temperature, then you will not lose too much water temperature from the 2 litre beaker of distilled water when transferring it to the oven, and you can experiment and see, maybe a half a degree loss in temperature happening in the period it takes for you to transfer the beaker to the oven and put the electrodes in, so you can simply let the beaker overheat a similar amount, to 32.5 degrees, and the temperature will be reasonably accurate, having come back down to 32 degrees, by the time the oven door is sealed with the beaker inside, providing that the oven does not take a long time to heat back up. That should not happen to be a real problem anyway, at near room temperature, and an oven properly designed with a duct at the top of the inside wall of the oven and one at the bottom of the inside wall of the oven, providing fan driven heated air, should regulate temperature back to 32 degrees, or whatever temperature you personally prefer, in just a few moments. The fan should only recirculate air from inside the oven, and not circulate air from an outside source, to prevent dust being introduced.  A laboratory equipment supplier should be able to build you one to order for a very reasonable price.
The criteria for selecting an oven are:
Size being sufficient to hold the size of beaker and electrode block you intend to work wish.
Digital readout telling you when the inner temperature is exactly where you want it before you switch on the current to the electrodes.
Small gap between room air temperature and operating temperature – Some manufacturers require air temperature outside the oven to be 20 degrees below intended operating temperature, other manufacturers may want only 5 degrees or less, though as I have mentioned with the Techne, a room air temperature of even 31.5 degrees did not even produce one tenth of a degree variation from the 32 degrees I set the Techne to produce, so the variation in the temperature of these ovens would, I suggest, be negligible also in real terms, though the oven manufacturers themselves could offer further information on that themselves upon being consulted.
Metal sides and door impervious to light.
Tight air seal to prevent introduction of air containing dust when fan is working.
Compact size.
Fan unit recycling air inside the oven (not from external source so as not to introduce dust in air from outside, with 2 air ducts, one at top of inside oven wall, and one at bottom of inside wall).
Accurate thermostat technology to give temperature variation as small as possible.
Request narrow bandwidth of operating temperature, for instance, 28 to 32 degrees to get a cheaper price and a more accurate oven.
In more tropical climates, the water bath with cooling unit attached to the thermostat, such as the Techne, would be most suitable still (there are several other manufacturers you may wish to consider, though for features and price and accuracy I rate the Techne best).
Analysis of typical ionic cluster size produced by your particular sol-making equipment may be obtainable through transmission electron microscopy analysis by a professional laboratory, the cheapest available service again usually being obtained from a university laboratory, though this is pricey and not really necessary I feel unless we start to talk in terms of producing silver sols for hospital usage on a larger scale, and even here, where the sol is very clear and of a very low ppm value, the clarity alone can be held to be evidence of a satisfactory particle size, below 14 ppm, able to enter any cell wall. For instance, once you check with a laboratory that you have a specific ppm value below 14 ppm, the clarity of that sol demonstrates small ionic cluster size. The same sol, say 8 or 10 ppm, if exposed to air for a week or two, will turn darkish, when the particles start to join together in the sol before bottoming out.
For large-scale medical trials, the particle size of clusters of silver ions may prove to be highly relevant as regards their differing degrees of effectiveness in treatment of different types of illnesses. Larger particle sizes, as mentioned before, are still of great value in sterilizing and healing surface wounds, and silver mesh inserted in a leg wound, with the addition of a small electric current passing through it has caused flesh and bone tissue to grow back where no regrowth was evident before, thus saving a patient from certain amputation of a leg.  The study revealing this is contained in the fascinating book; The Body Electric, by Robert O Becker M.D. and Gary Selden
I show a picture for a Techne thermoregulator and water bath here, but you can go for the cheaper manually (rather than digitally) calibrated one, the TE-10A analogue version. They give you a range of -20 to +95 degrees at accuracy of + or – 0.01 degrees. You add a lid to this to prevent temperature loss (this will also minimize exposure to light). Depending on the beaker size you use, to keep the water level in the water bath about the same with the water level in the beaker, you may need to use a tray suspended from the sides of the bath that Techne can provide for this purpose. Here is the manual for the Techne unit:  Typical UK price of the Techne TE10A thermoregulator without bath is around £450-480, though by shopping around used lab equipment sites you will often find excellent bargains.
Myself, I saved money by using a glass aquarium, and made a wooden stand, standing outside the glass tank, around the back and above it, to suspend the Techne unit from, with a hole drilled through the top of the wooden stand for the heating coil and integral stirrer to drop through into the external stainless steel tank (or glass aquarium), with an additional hole drilled through the wooden stand to support a thermometer to let me know how the water in the external water bath is heating up (I use a few rubber bands around the thermometer, just above the hole in the wooden stand, to support the thermometer just above the bottom of the tank to make sure the mercury bulb cannot fall and break, and also to ensure accurate temperature reading in the thermometer. Using a glass aquarium costs next to nothing, compared to several hundred pounds or dollars for the stainless steel tank and lid. The aquarium walls will have to be the right height to not only contain the 2 litre beaker with sufficient water to reach same water level outside the beaker, it will need to have enough space empty above the water line for safety, as the water circulator will cause the water level to push up unevenly against the walls of the tank, yet the height of the walls must be low enough to allow the deepest necessary immersion of the coiled thermoregulator and integral water circulator unit.
A tip regarding thermometers here: If using the Techne with external water bath method, you really do want 2 thermometers, unless you buy the more expensive Techne with digital readout. This is because I would not recommend using one thermometer for both purposes, but a separate one for each. This is because the water in the external water bath gets dirty with metallic gunge coming off the heating element (so needs replacing regularly, with distilled water, as deposits from tap water will fur up the heating element and circulator), and if you use just one thermometer, transferring it each run from the beaker to the water bath and vice versa, then metal deposits from the thermometer will probably get into the distilled water in the beaker. You also run the increased risk of breaking a mercury bulb by moving it around a lot, which is not good. However, you can also use a different type of thermometer that is not mercury filled if the mercury worries you. I got mercury ones because they react very quickly, thus being more accurate.
Here are the dimensions for the glass tank, of the type normally used for a vivarium or aquarium, sealed together with silicone glue: 4 millimetre thick glass sheets, forming a tank 16″ long x 8″ high x 8″ wide, or 40cm x 20cm x 20cm.
When you fill the tank with distilled water, the water level should be exactly the same level as the surface of the water in the 2 litre beaker filled with distilled water.
The resulting water level in the tank when the beaker is immersed and the  Techne thermostat/circulator is in place and operating requires a few centimetres space up to the rim of the tank to allow for the water pushing up at the sides of the tank as it circulates to give a reasonably safe margin.
The beakers themselves, although 2,000 ml, or 2 litres, are only marked up to 1,800 ml, so mark the 2,000 ml level yourself on the beakers, this is about 1.7 cm above the 1,800 ml line on the side of the beakers.
Also, place a mark on the tank to give you an idea how much water you need in the tank to maintain the level required, it evaporates quite a bit more than you would at first realize, so always top it up a bit before each run if not using the equipment regularly.
2,000 ml is the maximum level to which the beakers can be safely filled before the water comes up to the level of the spout at the side of the beakers, so silver wire electrode immersion is at its maximum possible. The top of the beaker will be 2 cm beneath the top of the tank. So in all, the water in the beaker is about 2 cm from the top of the beaker, and the top of the beaker to the rim of the tank is another 2 cm, providing a 4 cm margin of water level in the tank to the top. However, the wood at the top of the electrode block is a little over 2 cm thick, making it all quite a snug fit when you put a varnished wooden lid over the exposed part of the water tank when it is operating, leaving the Techne unit exposed. A further cabinet option is just to put a varnished wooden box over the whole set of apparatus, Techne and all, with the tank itself already being in a wooden box, to prevent any light getting in. However, the bottom rim of the upper box when lifted off might carry dust from the work surface into the air above the sol, so arrange whichever box arrangement you find most effective.
Myself, I have the glass tank in a wooden box, and just cover the exposed part of the tank that is not already covered by the wooden platform supporting the Techne thermostat and thermometer with another varnished wooden lid over the remainder of the surface part of the tank that is exposed, to meet the edge of that, and I keep that in a darkened room anyway. The wooden lid that I place over the tank fits very snugly over the electrode block and alligator clip arrangement, giving maximum protection against dust.
It is important to stick to the height I have given you here to get maximum immersion of the electrodes, and for safety reasons, as you don’t want water spilling over near the transformer, though you can put that well away from the tank on a higher level anyway. Also, if the height is any more, then the Techne might not be immersed in the water enough. A half centimetre variance from this height either way will not matter, though your lid might stand a bit proud if it gets pushed up by the electrode block if your tank height is a few millimetres short, but you can remedy that with a deep rim round the lid of the wooden cover, and fix some supports on the outside of the bottom box (in which the glass tank is contained) to rest the rim of the lid on at a higher level.
Length and width of the tank are not very important, though the measurements I have provided should allow 2 X 2 litre beakers in at a time should you wish to produce more at a time, though I just use one.
The Techne thermoregulator is so effective that even when I have experimented by using the Techne in a room with air temperature of 30-31 degrees, with the Techne itself set to maintain a water bath temperature of 32 degrees, the Techne has consistently not measurably deviated from 32 degrees in the slightest, not even by 0.1 of a degree, when checked against a 10 cm immersion mercury bulb thermometer suspended in the water bath. This means that unless you wish to produce sol at, say 20 degrees, in a room air temperature of 40 degrees, an additional cooling unit will not be necessary in addition to the basic Techne TE10A, though usage in hotter tropical regions would necessitate the cooling unit. If already available, a modest air conditioning unit to cool the room air temperature would of course make the cooling unit superfluous. Another point to bear in mind is that a lid is needed over the equipment to stabilize the beaker temperature when the air temperature is so much cooler that the Techne circulating warm water around the beaker does not stop significant heat loss through the exposed and unheated water surface in the beaker, but you need a lid anyway to stop dust and light, so a simple varnished wooden box or metallic box over the whole apparatus (not including the AC/DC converter) will suffice to accomplish all these requirements, and this can also be insulated if room air temperature is very much cooler than the temperature at which you intend to produce your sol.
If you have enough water in the tank, but switch it on without a beaker full of water in to raise the water level in the external bath to the same level as in the beaker, the water in the tank will spray all over the place, so when warming the water up in the outer bath, place a second beaker of water in the tank to maintain the right water level for safe use of the Techne unit (this is not the actual beaker of water that you will be using to put the electrodes in, just a beaker of water that will enable you to switch the Techne thermostat and circulator on and warm up the water in the external water bath to the right temperature, ready to exchange it with the beaker of distilled water; this is necessary because to wait for both temperatures to come to the same degree using just the thermostat heater would take many minutes).
To get an accurate temperature reading from the distilled water in the beaker whilst you are warming it up, you will need to stir it a little as it sits in the bowl or pan of hot water, to break up temperature banding in the beaker which would otherwise give you a very innaccurate reading. When the distilled water is at the right temperature in the other beaker, the one that you are going to make the sol with, switch the Techne unit off, and remove the other beaker from the tank, then place the beaker filled with distilled water in the tank in its place, immersing  the electrodes in the beaker and attaching them to clips ready to switch on the current. I do things this way to prevent excessive exposure of the distilled water to oxygen in the air, and so that all the water I use is exposed to exactly the same amount of air to ensure similar conductivity, and to minimize formation of silver oxide. The first beaker can contain just warm tap water. After usage, scrub and rinse all glasswear and rinse with distilled water.
I enclose the glass tank in a light-proof varnished wooden case, and pace a varnished wooden lid over it during manufacture, to prevent light and dust getting in, though I operate all the equipment in a light-proof room anyway, using a minimal light source to switch off the equipment and bottle with (a night-light that fits in a plug socket). The whole thing does not require supervision once you have established what ppm you want to make, at what temperature and how many minutes, just a preset timer in a separate room can alert you to whenever 70 minutes is coming up and then you can prepare to switch off the AC/DC converter and the Techne thermoregulator and bottle everything. I rinse out all new bottles with distilled water before using, to get rid of any dust particles that may be there.  All bottles are then placed in cardboard tubes and these are sealed from light, ready for use.
The Altai P005B AC to DC converter 0-30V DC, 0-2.5A, is the power source I use, with twin digital voltmeter and ammeter, similar to the one in this image (I just sourced this analogue version picture of the same one from the internet as an example) is accurate and powerful enough for what you need, though I recommend digital readout for precise accuracy. It costs around £90 Sterling.
This is Model P005
You will need to buy two low form (132 mm diameter X 185 mm height) 2 litre (2,000 millilitre) Schott Duran borosilicate (the least reactive) glass beakers, these are about £10 Sterling each.
For more everyday non-medical uses, such as sterilizing toothbrushes and treatment of mould on  plants and household surfaces, an extra set of electrodes of much lower purity could be used,  99.9% would suffice. I am considering a little experimentation the next time I decorate by mixing silver sol into kitchen and bathroom emulsion paint to prevent the growth of mould on damp walls, it should go well with organic paint I think to keep it mould free. This article shows how heat affects Brownian motion, accelerating it, so to keep your silver sol in top condition, always keep it as warm as possible, so the particles will bounce off each other as fast as possible and not slow down and clump together in big clusters of ions. Note; the manufacturing process itself should not be too hot, as that makes big chunks of ions come off the electrodes all at once. As previously stated, a stirrer is not required during manufacture, as the ions will move in an extremely rapid manner to equalize pressure of ions throughout the 2 litre beaker; denser clusters won’t just hang around waiting for a shove by a stirrer to make them disperse, they will very rapidly space themselves out equally throughout the manufacturing beaker. This shows the speed of Brownian motion; you will realize just how fast these ions are moving when they each make in the order of 10^{21} collisions per second, very fast indeed, so the ions will very quickly bounce off each other and push each other around to create a relatively equal dispersion, or density of particles per cubic centimetre throughout the entire sol being manufactured in the beaker.

Phew, Just worked that out, it comes to: 10,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 collisions per second, so the ions are moving very vast indeed, much too fast to be influenced even in the slightest degree by a stirrer.

Silver Bullet to Beat Cancer?

ScienceDaily (Feb. 2, 2012) — The Internet is awash with stories of how silver can be used to treat cancer. Now, lab tests have shown that it is as effective as the leading chemotherapy drug — and may have fewer side-effects

‘How Silver Turns People Blue’

ScienceDaily (Oct. 29, 2012) — Ingesting silver — in antimicrobial health tonics or for extensive medical treatments involving silver — can cause argyria, condition in which the skin turns grayish-blue. Brown researchers have discovered how that happens. The process is similar to developing black-and-white photographs, and it’s not just the silver.  Take this last report with a ‘pinch of salt’ if you like; I thought it only fair to include it. As I have mentioned in my article, I have consumed many litres of silver sol (colloidal silver) and have not got the faintest hint of discolouration of my skin. I am a regular sunbather too, whenever the climate permits, despite regular chemtrailing turning the whole summer sky into a grey haze more often than not these days.




  1. I would like a copy of your plans for Colloidal Silver generator, I have just a basic generator and would like to improve it.

    Comment by James M McDonald — January 13, 2012 @ 5:34 am | Reply

  2. Thanks James, I hope you got my email. As you can see I am continuing to add to this post to improve it.

    Comment by mothman777 — February 2, 2012 @ 11:44 pm | Reply

  3. Bravo , I applaud your unselfishness by sharing this with the world ! I have known about the ” secrets of silver ” for a while , many years ago pioneers in the U.S. west would put one or more silver coins in a barrel of water to kill the bacteria , others would add a piece of copper to prevent algae form forming ….. and just as you , I have read about hospitals beginning to paint the interiors of their buildings with silver infused paint . I myself contacted ” pink eye ” from one of my grandsons and sprayed colloidal silver on it and it went away over night !
    Keep up the great work you are doing ……

    Comment by oldjarhead — February 12, 2012 @ 12:50 pm | Reply

  4. How do silver sol and colloidal silver compare as far as getting results?

    Comment by Judy Reinhart — July 31, 2012 @ 2:38 am | Reply

    • Hi Judy,

      And thanks for getting in touch. First of all, colloidal silver is often somewhat of a misnomer, as the proper term for what is almost always sold or produced by commercial or private manufacturers is in fact in technical terms actually a sol, or particles remaining in Brownian Motion in a liquid by virtue of the fact that the charge they hold makes them bounce off each other in perpetuity, until they ‘bottom out’ after gradually forming larger and larger groups of ionic particles and no longer remain in suspension. Sols are made by putting an electric current through electrodes of silver suspended in distilled water. I recommend DC, as high voltage AC units that pump out a gallon every 10 minutes or so are not the real deal. I have seen a photo of huge clusters of ionic particles gathering in a sol produced by such a high voltage AC unit, like giant mare’s tail clouds, so the claims they make are quite false, when they say their ions never stick together. Properly made and kept, ions of gold or silver and other metals in a well-made sol can remain visible through a microscope in Brownian Motion for centuries. A true colloid does not need to have particles held in suspension by Brownian Motion due to any electrical charge, but can be something like milk, in other words a simple suspension of minerals, essential fatty acids, vitamins and amino acids, all of which will eventually sink to the bottom of the container due to lack of Brownian motion. A true colloid of silver would be obtained by ablation of tiny particles from the source mass of silver, by mechanical grinding for instance, or possibly by chemical process.

      Particles produced by such a means as this would not have any electrical charge, and would be less active medicinally when used internally after drinking it, or in vivo. The smaller size of particles obtained by electrical means is vastly more replicable and effective in killing pathogens, especially as the charge itself, as well as the specific nanometer size of ionic clusters plays an extremely important part in neutralizing pathogens, different nanometer sizes being effective for different pathogens.

      However, the early researcher Searle used relatively massive particles of silver sometimes in healing surface flesh wounds on dogs, with very great success, but this was more for purposes of stimulating tissue cell replication rather than for anti-pathogenic effect, but silver is remarkably effective at killing surface pathogens no matter what the particle size is, and he achieved excellent germicidal efects with sols containing as little as 2-3 ppm, though I imagine under their fur they would most likely have large dark tattoos remaining from localized argyria, as the application of silver in potencies like 20,000 ppm for instance, would certainly leave patches of skin discolouration, a common phenomenon seen in the fingers of silver workers on their fingers through handling lots of silver over the years. I have drunk dozens of litres of silver sol over the years and have never seen any skin discolouration in myself, not even temporarily.

      Incidentally, I have read that selenium is a remedy to chelate silver from the skin in rare cases of generalized argyria that occur through using very concentrated silver colloids or sols containing very large ionic clusters that the body cannot easily dispose of, and this occurs where silver nitrate is used, or silver oxide, or silver chloride is consumed when salt has been added to speed up the electrolytical process. EDTA is also another excellent possibility, and sunshine itself speeds up the rate at which the body disposes of any type of unwanted metal or toxic chemical compound by an amazing factor of 20-50 times faster. Please get in touch again if you have any more questions.


      Comment by mothman777 — July 31, 2012 @ 10:57 pm | Reply

    • Hi Judy,

      I only just found your comment. As far as I know, colloidal gold is of great benefit in treating depression, and in helping to raise consciousness in metaphysical research by opening higher chakras. Ther are some 32 chakras above the head according to vedic literature by the way. And of course some use it as an adjunct in cancer therapies, but as far as I know it has no germicidal properties. However, in the early research that Searle did, he experimented with quite a number of different metal colloids and got various beneficial results. Colloidal copper was used with a good measure of success in Europe in curing breast cancer in the 1920’s, by injecting the sol into the muscle tissue next to the breast.

      You may have read the recent article stating that silver us now recognized as being as effective as chemotherapy in killing cancer cells; I have now added a link to that article to my blog on making silver at ‘Mothman777’s blog’.

      Gold, as you will probably know, is also used to treat rheumatoid arthritis, though some are allergic to it and develop a red rash. The method of making gold sol is quite a lot more complex the the method used for making silver sol, but I do have a book detailing the process which makes interesting reading, giving many different grades, with each having a different colour according to their concentration.

      Comment by mothman777 — November 17, 2012 @ 12:58 am | Reply

    • Hi again Judy,

      Colloidal silver merely means small particles held in a liquid suspension, that can be made by chemical, electrical or mechanical means, whereas water that contains ions of silver that are produced by electrical means, held in suspension by Brownian motion, by bouncing off each other due to their electrical charge, is more properly termed a silver sol. Any electrically produced ‘colloidal silver’ therefore, is more properly termed a silver sol.

      Comment by mothman777 — January 15, 2013 @ 11:27 pm | Reply

  5. Dear Sir,..Im interested in constructing a very inexpensive home set up with .999 wire and a DC power supply. Could you guide me along in setting this up and knowing how to operate it to get a good rounded out solution for normal to even a daily maintenance dosage.
    And remember this needs to be on somewhat of a shoe string budget if at all possible.

    Many thanx for your dedication and service!

    Comment by Mark — January 15, 2013 @ 5:29 am | Reply

    • Hi Mark,

      Thankyou for your email. If you are working without a thermoregulator, then simply use the sol before it starts to turn even the very slightest tint of gold, so that you know the particle size of ions sticking together is suitably small. You can experiment with single-distilled water at a fairly constant temperature checking at regular intervals to see when the sol starts to change colour, and then if that takes, say 70 minutes or 100 minutes with a regular DC voltage, you can work back from that, and use less time, to ensure an even smaller particle size.

      My sols are perfectly clear even at 5 ppm and 8 ppm, so you don’t need any gold colour in the sol if that is the strength you want, and I would recommend that strength myself, as 14 ppm usually forms particle sizes too big to hit pathogens effectively. The smaller the better, and the slower the process the better, as this will make smaller particles. Remember, daylight or lamplight will cause the process to speed up, and damage your sol, and so will oxygenated water, so use freshly distilled water that has not got much free oxygen dissolved in it, and keep your experiments in a cupboard or under or in a light-proof box when you do them.

      Hold the sol on your tongue, and you will taste it, and you may also feel it hit the top of your head as it affects your chakras, and then you will know the stuff has got silver ions floating around in it. You can experiment on molds and stuff too to see how powerful your sol is, and adjust times accordingly. You could even try an inexpensive vivarium mat or similar in a box to create a fairly constant temperature. I would certainly invest in a cheap thermometer so you can tell what your starting temperature is, and make that a rough constant whenever you manufacture, enabling you to guess fairly accurately when it is time to disconnect the electrodes.

      A further alternative is just to leave the electrodes in distilled water for ten minutes or something like that, at 72 degrees Fahrenheit or so, at 27 volts DC, and then drink the water, as although it would be a 250 ml glass for example, the amount of silver would be extremely small and the particles would be extremely fine and very effective, especially if drunk fresh immediately after manufacturing. Don’t add salt or you will make silver chloride and that compound would result in your complexion getting a little ruddy after a while.

      With regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — January 15, 2013 @ 10:10 pm | Reply

  6. Mothman777

    Could you provide me with a drawing or better description of how you connect your electrodes to the DC Supply? Also, not quite sure of how the piece of wood would look that holds the silver electrodes… any additional details would be appreciated.

    Many Blessings,


    Comment by sean (707) 514 0456 — January 30, 2013 @ 8:01 am | Reply

    • Hi again Sean, I am preparing to move from my present dwelling place at the moment and my equipment is buried in a box under many others somewhere. I tried to dig it out earlier, but was unsuccessful, so I will do a sketch and put it on the site in the next few days.

      With my regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — January 30, 2013 @ 7:43 pm | Reply

  7. Mothman777

    I understand you’ve run a variety of tests with 6 to 9 silver electrodes… would using less electrodes work? I’m assuming no because it would probably require more time and opportunity of the “sol” being exposed to oxygen!?!? Your insight would be appreciated.



    Comment by Sean — January 30, 2013 @ 8:06 am | Reply

    • Hi Sean.

      Thankyou for your emails. Yes, using less electrodes will work fine. Although it will require a little more time for the process, unless you increase either the temperature or the voltage, but increasing either or both of those would have the effect of producing larger clusters of ions, which would make the sol less effective for internal use, especially for intravenous use. For external use it would make very little difference at all.

      By simply using no other change than a little increase in time taken, you will be still be able to make a very good sol with smaller particles, as the increase in oxygen level in the water will not be so great as to cause the formation of a great deal of silver oxide.

      You can experiment by making a couple of jarfuls of sol and leaving one to stand in the open air in the light, and see how long it takes for the sol to darken. You can also experiment to see how the process is affected, if at all, by leaving the other jar exposed to air in a dark cupboard.

      It takes a few days for a sol to darken in a dark place with silver oxide just from being exposed to air, however, if a sol is actually made whilst being exposed to light, it will darken even during the process, as the sliver oxide is a powerful electrolyte and rapidly hastens the process, producing more and more silver oxide whilst the electrical current is still being applied.

      You can also use less electrodes in a smaller beaker, and keep the process time roughly similar, though the proximity of the electrodes to each other plays some part of course.

      Comment by mothman777 — January 30, 2013 @ 7:29 pm | Reply

      • Mothman777

        While waiting for your response I did in fact do a test using my Robert Beck type generator with I think much success. This is the first time in many years of playing/using these types of devices that I was able to produce a product with a goldish color to it… until I read and followed your instructions I had NEVER achieved that color… I was taught to always add a pinch of sea salt to the distilled water which created a very greyish colored mix of probably more oxides then beneficial “sol”. Thanks to your insights and wisdom I think I’m heading in the right direction.

        Q. As a rule of thumb is there a way to tell how strong the sol is by its cooler?

        Q. What color does it turn to after being exposed to oxygen for a few days or longer?

        Yes, I will do some experiments but was hoping you’ll be able to share some wisdom as to what I should expect or should look for.

        Thank your for sharing your wisdom and for your timely response.



        “When the student is ready, the teacher will appear.”

        Comment by Sean — January 31, 2013 @ 5:40 am | Reply

        • Hi Sean,

          Whenever I get settled in new accommodation, in the next few months hopefully, I will set up my equipment again and add a photo to the article.

          I am glad you are getting better results now by not using salt any longer.

          After a few days, exposed to oxygen in air, a drinking glass containing clear sol in a dark cupboard will turn mucky gold, to a deeper gold, turning into a brownish grey.

          Colour can also be influenced by methodology used in production, as well as by the ppm total amount of silver held in solution, so technically, an 8ppm silver sol could contain 20 billion particles in a 5ml teaspoon, or, produced more quickly with higher temperature, higher voltage, for instance, an 8 ppm silver sol could just contain 2 billion somewhat larger particles in a 5ml teaspoon, and the larger particles may produce a more discernibly golden tint, and those particles will have a tendency to clump together faster and not remain in suspension in the sol in Brownian motion as long.

          Water purity will play a big part in this, even when using purified water, as even distillation units produce different levels of purity according to different brands of manufacturer. Brownian motion in a sol can be preserved for hundreds of years, in a sealed container away from strong light. But, it is still the best thing to drink the sol or use it in other ways when it is relatively fresh, just so you can be sure you are getting it at it’s best. Try holding it in your mouth for a minute or two, and see if you can feel it around the third eye region, or higher up, as silver and other some other metal sols will produce a very noticeable effect on the upper chakras.

          Also, silver sol usually produces a very noticeable feeling in the pit of the stomach when swallowed on an empty stomach, slightly uncomfortable sometimes, so you can tell if there are particles in the sol by that method also.

          A clear sol should indicate very low particle size and the highest anti-microbial potency.

          Raw organic honey, especially Manuka honey, will also do what silver sol does on superficial abrasions and the like, sterilizing and encouraging new tissue growth, as Manuka honey, which must be raw, and unprocessed in any way, has also been proved to kill all microorganisms, just as silver sol does.

          For protection against flu, 82% effective prevention of flu can be obtained simply be taking one capsule of dry bee propolis, working out at around £10 for a 6 month supply, without the risk of killing off your healthy bacteria in your mouth and throat, though extremely mild silver sols, say 2 ppm or therabouts, can be used regularly with more safety in this regard. A tickly cough and a tickly feeling in your throat is a sign you have used too much silver; I have also experienced this on several occasions a couple of weeks after starting regular use of silver sol at 5 and 8ppm, and a couple of weeks after starting to use antiseptic mouthwashes too, so too much of a good thing becomes a bad thing. You have several thousand unique strains of bacteria in your throat, and thousands of strains of other, different strains of bacteria in other parts of the body also, that all perform a vital function, so wiping those out is not good at all.

          We are a communal being rather than just one soul in one body, and recent research has demonstrated how bacteria act in groups, communicating with each other when it is time to change their activity together all at once. They have been demonstrated to communicate even in a cross-species manner. So they are all conscious souls, just like us, which is really fascinating.

          A study was done, exposing two groups of people to flu virus, and only 18% of those taking bee propolis got the flu, while 82% of those using a placebo got the flu. I have never had a cold or flu in all the years I have been taking propolis, and only rarely use silver sol, because I consider it too powerful for everyday use in my own personal experience, though others report safely using 2 or 3 teaspoons a day safely, of, say 5 or 8ppm, with no adverse effects such as I have experienced, while experiencing good degrees of protection against pathogenic microbes.

          With best regards,

          mothman777 (diagram to be added shortly when I get down to it)

          Comment by mothman777 — February 1, 2013 @ 9:25 pm | Reply

  8. just a quick thought… do you have any photos of your unit that you could post or email?

    Comment by Sean — January 31, 2013 @ 5:41 am | Reply

    • Hi Sean,

      I have made a sketch of the electrode array, and photographed it and uploaded it to Picasa, but the program will not allow me to copy the image to the article on here for some reason.

      Basically, the larger piece of wood acting as the base containing the 12 holes for the electrodes has two short struts glued on top at each end, parallel to the ends, with an additional longer strut glued on top in a central position along the back of the wooden base between the other two struts, with two parallel lines of holes for the electrode arrays, each of 6 holes, running along the wooden base on either side of the long central strut. I hope this makes it a little easier to picture mentally.

      An insulated electrical clip is clipped onto each electrode, with each electrode having a few millimetres bent over on top of the wooden base to give the clip sufficient to grip onto.

      Each set of 6 insulated wires leading from the clips connected to the electrodes is soldered into one, a reasonable distance from the array, and then a single insulated wire soldered onto each one of those, both running to the power source, with spade connections soldered on to the ends of both of them, that can then be screwed onto the positive and negative terminals of the AC/DC converter.

      The struts prevent warping of the base in any direction, and the central strut also makes it easy to lift the electrode array in and out of the beaker. The wooden base with struts is varnished to prevent the possibility of dampness accumulating in the wood through splashes of water etc., thus preventing the possibility of shorting.

      With best regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — February 8, 2013 @ 11:02 pm | Reply

  9. Can I make silver sol on my collidal machine. Have been makèing collidal silver for years. What do I need to make silver sol. I think I just need pure 99.999 silver rods. Where can I get some nice thick rods. Would u please leave your phone number so I can call and talk to u.

    Comment by Patti Clemts 11606 camden ave — February 12, 2013 @ 2:50 am | Reply

    • Hi Patti, you will find in my article where you can buy 2mm silver rods that are 99.999% pure, with a metallurgical certificate telling you exactly what is in with the silver, which I think is gold, palladium and magnesium, which are all useful medicinal metals in sol forms themselves.

      The thing is, Alfa Aesar in Germany sell it in one metre lengths minimum, so you should maybe think about making an array of about 6 electrodes, three on each side, from one metre, unless you want to do what I did with two metres and have 12 electrodes total, or you could club together with one or two other people and buy a metre or two together.

      I believe they may be able to source it for you in the US too, as Alfa Aesar is a subdivision of Johnson Matthey, which has offices in the US. Remember when you buy it, they include a centimetre or two extra, so measure the length exactly before you start to divide it up, to get electrodes all the same length.

      You have a kit already, so just make a new electrode block with the higher quality silver. I think you will find my instructions highly comprehensive in the article, and you can use much simpler methodology than my method if you like, just with the electrodes in a glass beaker or jar of distilled water, in a dark cupboard, at a reasonably warm temperature around 72 degrees Fahrenheit without even using a thermoregulator device, which cost around 500 dollars or more.

      No electrical circuitry at all is required, in truth, just a DC current, and you can just use 3 x 9 volt PP9 batteries joined together. Around 27 volts is best, but it does not have to be that strong a current exactly. I think your present kit will already provide a steady DC current, so your power source will not be a problem anyway.

      Just experiment, trying sols left connected for 20 mins, 30 mins, 40 mins etc., and see which actually work the best as germicides. The very smallest particles are the most effective internally, making particles comprised of bunches of ions that are less than 25 nanometers diameter or so, which is ideal, being small enough to get inside any cell or microorganism and nuke it.

      Manuka honey is best for many things though, as your own good bacteria are vital for several very important bodily processes as I mentioned on here earlier, so go very easy with whatever you make and don’t kill off all the good bacteria too. Even 2 or 3 ppm is an excellent therapeutic strength, and the lower the ppm, the longer it will remain highly active, exhibiting vigorous Brownian motion.

      All the best, mothman777

      Comment by mothman777 — February 13, 2013 @ 4:18 am | Reply

    • Patti,

      Just thinking, after reading your message again, I suddenly realized. Of course you can make silver sol on your colloidal silver machine, as silver sol is in fact just the proper name for a fine dispersion of ionic particles of silver held in suspension by Brownian Motion due to their electrical charge causing them to repel each other, and that is produced by applying an electrical charge to the electrodes, just like you have been doing all the time already.

      So in truth, colloidal silver is not the proper term for silver particles held in suspension in water by Brownian Motion, when produced by applying an electrical charge to electrodes of silver in water, but silver sol is.

      Regards, mothman777

      Comment by mothman777 — February 13, 2013 @ 9:20 pm | Reply

  10. Hello. Love the article. I was wondering if you could possibly make a tutorial video for us? There’s so much information it’s kind of overwhelming to read all of it.


    Comment by Sean — June 17, 2014 @ 3:16 am | Reply

    • Hi Sean, I am glad you liked the article. Sorry I don’t have the facilities for that at present. Is there anything in particular that you are not clear on that you would like to discuss with me? Please let me know,



      Comment by mothman777 — June 18, 2014 @ 12:40 pm | Reply

  11. There’s just so much information. It’s very informative and I learned some things but I feel overwhelmed to read the entire article. Do you think you could post a more simplistic article giving only directions to making the sol? You seem like a very intelligent person and I’d love to fully learn your process of manufacturing Silver Sol.

    Comment by Sean — June 18, 2014 @ 1:00 pm | Reply

    • Hi Sean, you could download the article, wordprocess it, and simply delete all the extraneous stuff, and restructure what you need in sequential order. Sorry, Sean, but I have a lot on my hands right now. If you have any specific problems after doing this, you can ask me any question you want relating to some specific issue as regards setting up equipment or using it, but I think the instructions are pretty much comprehensive already, though I can appreciate that I have added a lot of information that is not directly involved in the manufacturing process itself. I have spent a great deal of time attempting to load photo images of my electrode array onto this page, again unsuccessfully, so I have just created a brand new page; ‘PHOTO IMAGES OF ELECTRODE ARRAY FOR MANUFACTURE OF SILVER SOL’ to give a better idea of what I am using.

      Good luck with that, mothman777

      Comment by mothman777 — June 20, 2014 @ 11:16 pm | Reply

  12. Can you explain all this tout about nanosilver and silversol technology and it being the best silver on the market and the only one effective against marketed under silversol, silver biotics, ASAP..I have a generator put out by collgen2 that I got 10 years ago and now Im wondering if it is inferior.

    Comment by Ruth McCassie — October 18, 2014 @ 7:34 pm | Reply

    • If you study my article thoroughly, you will see that making silver sol in a plastic container is extremely counterproductive, as very many of the the silver ions produced will simply stick to the plastic, rather than remaining in Brownian Motion. I hope that you are not using a plastic container like the one in the video on how to use your particular generator. If that was the best NASA could do, no wonder they couldn’t really make it to the Moon (at least by rocket propulsion anyway).

      A sliver ion is a silver ion is a silver ion, and the antibacterial properties of silver ions are well known. There has been a video on making silver water, claimed to be better than ionic sol, in that no ions are needed to be produced, the water having some resonance of silver itself supposedly transferred to it, yet the video of the device being used to produce that clearly shows particles coming off the electrodes, totally insubstantiating the principal claims made for that device.

      Making ionic silver is very simple, yet the addition of fancy gadgets by some people such as air bubblers, magnetic stirrers etc., actually significantly damages the stability of any ionic particles of silver produced in their units.

      The oldest and simplest method used by most beginners of 27 volts DC connected to two silver electrodes in a glass of distilled water will perform far better than such gizmos, often being highly effective against pathogens, and to obtain the finest particle sizes with such simple equipment, one can skimpy try using such a unit for different time periods, say two minutes, to obtain the smallest particles of all, and some people get excellent health results by doing just that.

      My method is very simple, and highly effective in obtaining repeatable ppm and particle size values, using a thermoregulator to obtain such results.

      For more specialized medical use, to kill specific bacteria , which require specific particle sizes, then the equipment I show here can very easily be calibrated to produce any particle size and ppm value required on a totally repeatable basis, that is the simple beauty of it, and it is not patented or anything, and any hospital can buy the scientific apparatus from any manufacturer they wish, and assemble it and then calibrate it for whatever function they wish.

      If you want to kill a specific organism, particularly in a clinical setting, then such precision will be of paramount importance. To answer your question, study my article, and then see if any of the other types of equipment offer what my combination of equipment does, also bearing in mind that certain units from some manufacturers with (renamed) TDS meter electrodes dipping in the sol to measure ppm values simply cannot work as claimed, as they were never designed for that function in truth, and mathematical juggling to obtain a ppm value anyway from such equipment will of course be inaccurate.

      As suggested in my article, if you want to go that far, then run a series of tests with the equipment I show here, and have various sols tested with argon spectrometer at a professional university lab or other commercial lab, and also measure particle size if you wish, then set up your equipment to make that particular type of sol in the future on a repeatable basis, with occasional testing being necessary to ensure continuing accuracy of process, taking into account minute changes in TDS values of water before being distilled, and gradual wear of electrodes, and even possible fluctuations from various causes of oxygen content in water; that is the only genuine method available to obtain a highly specific particle size and ppm value at present. All else is BS.

      Comment by mothman777 — October 18, 2014 @ 10:52 pm | Reply

    • Hi again Ruth,

      I thought you would really like this additional information on colloidal silver.

      Tetrasilver Tetroxide is extremely difficult to get hold of, but cures AIDS and cancer they say, and I would really LOVE to find out how to make that. Just received this letter with information about that very substance, check it out;

      With best regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — October 19, 2014 @ 9:54 pm | Reply

  13. Ty Mothman..all the info out there is confusing as one saying this is better than that but they are all selling machines or product so you cant trust any of them. My head was spinning and my eyes crossing by the time I got to your site as I had been trying to find answers for mutliple hours.

    Comment by Ruth McCassie — October 19, 2014 @ 11:04 pm | Reply

    • Hi Ruth,

      Give me any specific question and I will try to answer it, but please study my article thoroughly first to make sure that I have not already answered your question in that, as I have been quite comprehensive there.

      If you want simple, with no fancy equipment or unnecessary circuitry, and reasonably effective, try to use just a glass of single distilled water (which will be less than 1ppm TDS), fresh as possible to limit dissolved oxygen content, using no salt or other electrolyte, around 72 degrees Fahrenheit, put 27 volts DC through your 2 electrodes into that, and make it in the dark; that is extremely important, and bottle it straightway in a glass airtight container, do not leave the sol standing exposed to air, and keep in the dark.

      It is best to use a number of small bottles rather than one big one.

      Keep your sealed bottles of sol as warm as possible as the Brownian Motion is preserved longer in heat. Don’t use stirrers or bubblers.

      Try 2mm wires, minimum 99.9% purity, preferably 99.99%, or 99.999%, with 3-6 inches submerged, a couple of inches or so apart, in a 700 cl glass or similar, for 70 minutes or so.

      Use a plastic scrubber to clean your wires, and make sure to polish off the last of the black muck with a handkerchief before making each sol. Even a ‘clean’ looking wire will still have a lot of gunk on it after scrubbing, which, if left on, will spoil your sol, as big particles are like magnets for the other ions to stick to, and big particles bottom out fast.

      I hope that is a good start.

      With best regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — October 20, 2014 @ 10:47 pm | Reply

  14. This unit actually seems simple..I dont have the know how or gumption to make my own. all the other units are now adding bubblers or stirrers not sure why that has come about if it is damaging to the solution. The silver edge who claims small particle size has a bubbler and even the silver lungs generator has a stirrer built in. At least those two use glass containers to produce it.

    Comment by Ruth McCassie — October 19, 2014 @ 11:39 pm | Reply

  15. 10/10/15

    Mr Mothman,
    I have built my generator per your instructions and it is working very well, but
    I would prefer to use a type 316 SS container instead of a beaker as due to the
    better heat transfer characteristics of the Stainless it is easier to hold the temperature of the water
    at the setpoint.. The stainless is also nonconductive so it minimizes any
    magnetic effects. Can you see any negative effects from using Stainless Steel instead of glass?
    Thanks so much for your massive technical information on the subject.

    Comment by Chuck Marshall — October 13, 2015 @ 5:22 am | Reply

    • Hi Chuck,

      I am glad you found my instructions useful. As regards the heat transfer characteristics of stainless steel versus glass, I think the very thin glass of the lab beakers works fine. The top of the water level in the tank which holds the circulating heated water will be the same as the water level in the beaker, which should be pre-heated to exactly the right temperature before commencing the process, and when you cover the top of the tank during manufacture, the temperature is very easily stabilized, and even when the equipment is operated without a cover in room temperature roughly the same as the manufacturing temperature, when you have a mercury thermometer in the beaker and another one in the bath of circulating heated water, the temperature can be seen to remain the same.

      Of course, if the room temperature is much colder than the intended temperature of the beaker, then the thermoregulator will have a difficult task in trying to transfer a constant temperature from the circulating water to the non-circulating water in the beaker, and there will be a very slight decrease from the intended temperature level, so a lid for insulation against temperature loss is advisable, and will also prevent unwanted dust getting into the beaker.

      Once you have calibrated your equipment, it will maintain the same similar ppm production for a great many subsequent runs, and my tests involved quite large variations in time, and these only produced extremely minimal changes in ppm values tested with argon spectrometer. As regards temperature, even a decimal point or two of a degree variation in beaker temperature would make only a very little difference indeed to the ppm value eventually produced, though you should not encounter any variation in temperature like that with your equipment. The exactness is mainly for initial calibration of the equipment, and when that is sorted, you can, if you wish, occasionally send a number of samples off to a lab to have them properly tested, say three samples, and that will let you know if you need to adjust your timing slightly, if for example, your electrodes are eroded away significantly, which they don’t appear to be in my equipment even after a great many runs. I am not a commercial manufacturer so I don’t make a great deal anyway. A decent micrometer will tell you how much your electrodes are thinning, and then you can simply increase your timing slightly to compensate for that.

      As regards the suitability of stainless steel beakers, I would be extremely wary of putting any metal at all near an electric current whilst you are attempting to make a pure silver sol by means of electrolysis, and the type of glass beakers I selected are specific to be non-reactive during this process, as even some glass contains ions that can be released in some circumstances.



      Comment by mothman777 — October 13, 2015 @ 2:33 pm | Reply

  16. Hello again Mr. mothman777,
    I have researched the many uses of nano silver ie silver sol and have
    found out some very interesting things.
    I have been growing a lot of garlic for several years–its great stuff and is
    very healthy. Several years ago I got a hold of some seed garlic contaminated with
    what is known as “white rot fungus” It is scientifically known as Sclerotium capivorum
    and just decimates both garlic and onions. The fungus is reproduced in the soil by
    very small spore bodies known as sclera that can exist for up to 20 years undisturbed
    in the soil. Long story short, I ran on to some research completed recently by
    several scientists at a university in Korea. The did exhaustive research on eliminating
    white rot from onions (same family as garlic) by the use of silver solutions. The results were very successful and so
    I am now embarked on a test to see if I can duplicate their results with garlic.
    We plant the garlic here in western Oregon late in the fall and it gets about 6 or 8 inches
    tall before cold weather. In the spring it starts growing and I usually harvest it about the
    first week in July.

    I plan on watering the garlic roots from now on weekly with a water solution of 5 to 10 ppm of
    silver to try to eliminate the rot from the ground, at least around the plants. I am going to need
    quite a large quantity of silver sol so am wondering if I can crank up the production in my apparatus
    both in quantity and concentration. If I could make, say silver sol at 20 ppm, and then dilute it
    down to 5 or 6 ppm with distilled H2O just before applying it to the plants it would be great.

    My question to you is: should I just run the ionizer for 5 or 6 hrs and get maybe a solution
    at 20 ppm. or should I jack up the voltage from 27 to 60 volts or so. I am making 2 liters
    at a time right now for our household use.

    Any way to cut this short, what do you think?


    Chuck Marshall

    Comment by chuck marshall — February 24, 2016 @ 12:54 am | Reply

    • Hi Chuck,

      It is good to hear from you again. Sorry to read of your problems with white rot fungus. I looked at the standard protocols for dealing with this disease, and it looks like something quite difficult to deal with. I don’t know if you are just growing garlic for personal health, or on a larger scale, but realistically, despite the possibilities of using silver sol to attempt to eliminate this fungus, I think that perhaps to get new soil and keep that new soil isolated in a growing frame, possibly raised on bricks or something, to stop sclera going through the wood, or gaps in it, from the already infected ground soil would be the best method to prevent transmission, and to dip all new stock in warm water, 120 degrees (one other report says 115 degrees), or briefly in alcohol perhaps, to kill off as many of the spores as possible without killing the bulbs themselves, though the report does say that just most of the fungus spores will be eliminated by this method, not necessarily all. If the problem persists, then regularly buying new sterilized soils and new bulb stock an sterilizing that as best you can will have to be the main way to go, with silver sol use just to keep it down as much as possible, unless the rot reasserts itself and you have to replace soil and bulb stock again, though the silver sol appears to do quite well in suppressing it in the Korea tests I see.

      The depth of the soil will be another issue, as silver sol will not necessarily be able to stop any fungus spores from way down in the soil from reinfecting, so again, starting with new soil would be best, and even doing what you can to sterilize that if it is not already sterilized, as shown in the links below, and you can buy ready sterilized soil from some manufacturers sealed in polythene bags.

      Making the plants stronger by adding good quality basalt rock dust to the soil, a kilo per square metre of surface area of soil, to experiment with at first, should greatly improve natural resistance to all pests and disease, as I have seen from research by various growers that they have achieved substantial improvement using basalt rock dust, even achieving 2-4 times increase in total crop weight with various crops. Please see my article on basalt rock dust about that, and the growth rate will be faster, so with a stronger growth rate, resistance should improve with that too, and you should find that the nutritional and taste qualities also improve. report on the fungus article on creating greenhouse or growing frame, and most light transparent plastics and glass on organic and chemical methods of controlling white rot, methods of treating soil.

      I am thinking that the sol clusters of ions in the sol would be fine at much lower concentrations, as the Korean research recommends just 7ppm, and that 7ppm will have a predominant average nanometre size, which would not be the same if you were to make 20ppm and then dilute it, as you would have much bigger ion clusters there, and much less effective, as 10ppm sol, with larger ion clusters than 7ppm was demonstrated to be less effective than 7ppm, though I know this would mean more operations, but just much less time for each one, and the ‘reach’ would be greater;

      Not sure what you meant by ‘ionizer’, I hope very much that you are not trying to add ozone or oxygen to your sol, as that will destroy it, by creating far less effective silver oxide rather than active silver ions. Some of the ‘help’ sites and even forums recommending people to use oxygen and magnetic stirrers and the like are just disinfo sites to throw people off, seriously, as the medical industry, and even commercial sol manufactures are not always very scrupulous people, and just do not want people to know how to make the silver sol properly. Many sell silver sol in plastic bottles for instance, which causes the charged ions to stick to the plastic, which has oppositely charged hydrocarbon molecules, and even when I pointed this out to one guy selling plastic bottles of silver sol at a health trade fair, the guy just said that his plastic was re-cycled and so did not have that property, a real joker. You just need an AC to DC converter, single distilled water, and your electrodes, and less expensive 99.9 % silver will be good enough for agricultural purposes, though if you are using the thermoregulator also, you will be making a far more predictable ionic cluster size and concentration. Increasing voltage will likely just make less effective big clusters of ions, the lower voltage of 27 volts is best to produce smaller clusters, keeping the process as gentle as possible, and the smaller clusters will go further, as there will be more of them, though not too small evidently, as the research showed also that lower than 7ppm was not as effective.

      Please get back to me if you have any more questions.

      With regards,


      Comment by mothman777 — February 24, 2016 @ 2:18 pm | Reply

  17. Thanks. Our entire family have suffered many viruses and strep and respitory infections.
    Can you recomend a farely inexpensive Silver maker

    Comment by jeezuzz — May 7, 2017 @ 2:36 pm | Reply

    • Hi Jeezuzz You will find much advise in previous comments left in answer to people asking similar questions to your own. I do not recommend any commercial manufacturer, as most are pretentious rip-off artists promising what they cannot possibly deliver, as they simply do not have the objective scientific knowledge that they pretend to have. Simple, make your own ‘unit’, using the most basic simple formula even without a thermoregulator, using your eyes to see the colour of the sol. Use the clearest sol, that has no colour, and you will taste it, you should feel the ionic silver content as it activates your head chakra, producing a very clear consciousness, and you will also taste a very slight metallic taste.

      Get yourself 2 silver electrodes, a few inches long, even 7-8 inches long, 99.9% pure silver MINIMUM, no electric circuits of any kind are necessary for this. 3 x 9 volt electric batteries, linked together, connected to the electrodes, and a glass to put the water and the electrodes in.

      Any more than that and some smartarse is conning you or ripping you off, and if you study my entire article, you will see exactly why, all the people trying to sell you units with magnetic stirrers, oxygen bubblers, timers, ppm readers, all that rubbish, are ripping you off, they are not true scientists, my article thoroughly backs up my reasons for saying this, and no genuine manufacturer can challenge a single word I say in my article. I wrote this article and gave these methods of manufacturing silver sol because I was utterly sickened by the rip-off artists making money from ‘colloidal silver’, as if they were printing money like coffee shop owners, or pizza manufacturers. I had my sols tested at university properly, and my method with the thermoregulator is truly exact. The method without the thermoregulator is extremely simple also, though the results are less exact, but still very effective.

      The results with the thermoregulator are suitable for hospital usage in the absence of effective antibiotics for antibiotic resistant pathogens for specific disease when specific nanometer-sized clusters of ions are required to be produced, and they can be produced with that method. It is just a matter of time till hospitals use this method, and it is not patented, the method is in my article above, it is freely available for all to use, no one can now patent it and prevent it from being used, and that is why I have written it here, to prevent it from being patented, as it is given here freely and openly. Of course, the simple method itself has been openly available for many years, but not the method with the thermoregulator, which no one else to the best of my knowledge has ever published for open public use.

      Don’t buy a ‘unit’, simply do what I recommend. 27 volts DC, a relatively constant temperature, say 78 degrees fahrenheit, a tall glass of distilled water, 2 six inch silver electrodes, and keep it in the dark (say in a dark warm airing cupboard) or it will all go pear-shaped forming silver oxide and screw everything up, and don’t use any salt or you will form silver chloride and screw everything up. Leave a glass in a dark cupboard for about 70 minutes, you can try several times til you get a relatively clear water ‘colour, adjusting the time to get what you want. Bottle in darkness, don’t let daylight touch the sol, or ten minutes normal daylight will kill it (use thick curtains, or make at night, (put a cardboard box over the unit during manufacture and use a night light, or similar during bottling.

      Use green plastic scrubbers to scrub off any oxides from the electrodes, and POLISH the electrodes with an old handkerchief, or towel till they are shiny, before using again, as any oxide remaining will seed heavy ionic clusters and spoil the results.

      Comment by mothman777 — May 7, 2017 @ 11:21 pm | Reply

    • In addition, try ingestible quality oregano oil for respiratory complaints, also crushed grape seed (sold as mysteriously-named’grape seed extract’), also ramp up your intake of vitamin D3, I use 5,000 to 6,000 IU a day, equivalent to 25 to 30 minutes sunshine a day (be SURE to increase your intake of vitamin K2 also, to make sure that the ensuing increased calcium intake will be directed to the correct places and does not build up in your arteries, get this from various cheeses and green leaved plants), or simply toast yourselves in the sun more if you are in warmer climes. For asthma you can also use the African wood bark Yamoa;

      Comment by mothman777 — May 7, 2017 @ 11:36 pm | Reply

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